Sunday, September 21, 2014

Civil War Era Fingerless Gloves Date To Circa 1861


True Americana.
Hauntingly beautifulthese exquisite silk lace gloves from circa 1861.

They are approximately 153 years old and are indeed from the American Civil War period. They are also the largest sized gloves from this era that we have had the pleasure in handling.
They come from a New Hampshire estate and their original owner was not identified. The gloves were found crumpled and had been obviously stored in an old trunk in an attic for well over a century in time. We weren’t sure what would happen, but we took the risk and took them back to the Studio here at The Gilded Griffin and handed them over to our conservationist. 
The result is breathtaking. 
The cleaning took nearly 2 weeks and was finished using museum archival conservation standards. No bleach was used. The gloves will require archival tissue storage, and should remain beautiful for many decades to come.
The gloves are fingerless aside from the thumb and are in overall excellent condition aside from a tiny snag on the palm (obvious in the photograph attached) and an even less obvious snag on the back of the left hand. These would make ideal candidates for restoration. Certainly, these will make any Civil War reenactor’s heart beat a little faster because they will make a glorious pattern for both study and replication.
We have attached a digital copy of an ambrotype from the collections in the U.S. Library of Congress. Please reference hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/ppmsca.34959).

  
The image, dated to circa 1861 and listed as American Civil War era, shows a woman wearing similar gloves. As a side note just for extra interest, it should be noted that the gloves in this image are likely dyed to match her hat and the darker color found in her brightly colored dress. They were quite likely not black as many people often believe due to early photographic technologies.
Fingerless gloves or half gloves are worn throughout history, but certain patterns and lengths can help to identify their age. “Godey’s Lady’s Book” from 1841 shows women wearing ball gowns with fingerless lace gloves. Although similar in length, mesh style and edging the lace gloves from this earlier period are plainer in style. They also do not have thumbs or fingers, although they do end halfway down the palm.
These particular Civil War era gloves feature intricately detailed lace edgings against the mesh and also have tiny ruffles that are accentuated when tied.  
The workmanship on these glistening silk gloves is masterful. The intricate lacework requires magnification to see its superfine detail. The gloves are the color of ivorythe color only found in natural silkand they shimmer in the light. They are entirely original right down to the finely woven silk lacings used to tie them in place along the edge of the wrist and slightly up the arm.
The glove design is perfection in creative problem solving. The ties are adjustable, allowing the wrist and fingers to move without risk of pulling or breaking the gloves. 
They are in excellent overall condition best described as excellent. They are larger than any we have ever found from this era and easily fit up to a slim glove size of 7.5.  
They are quite flexible and strong enough for gentle wear, although we caution against this to collectors because their long term value will only be maintained if they remain in this marvelous condition. 
The total length is 7-1/8 inches or 18cm. The palm measurement is 5-3/4 inches or 14.5 cm.



Saturday, September 20, 2014

Antique Edwardian Shoes in Original Box Dated 1907






These amazing, gorgeous shoes are well over 100 years old and were never, ever worn. In fact, they are still in their original box. They are closely dated to 1907-1908 by the maker’s logo and advertising slogan as it appeared in trade & manufacturing reviews. With original box and condition that is no less than mint, this will make a perfect new acquisition for both museums and discerning collectors.
The box is marked that these are “Prince Albert” shoes. A Prince Albert slipper was a formal man’s shoe worn in a black tie formal setting and only worn inside the home as Edwardian etiquette dictated.

It is incredibly rare to to find a pair of unworn shoes in their original boxone that also includes the original tissue wrappings. The shoes are shiny black and beautifully made. They are dated by way of the advertising and marketing campaign that was documented to between 1907 through 1908 by Hamilton Brown Shoe Company at St. Louis and Boston. Their marketing slogan that year was “Watch Us” and “Keep the Quality Up”. This logo was also stamped on the soles of the Hamilton Brown shoes, printed on their boxes and other advertising media as the company attempted to become the largest in the world. More than once historical account states that they reached this goal not long after these shoes were produced.
The shoes are made of fine, supple, polished black leather.  They are lined with linen in the front and

soft leather within the interior of the heel area. The shoes are also marked with the word “maturity” next to the inventory numbers indicating that these would be intended for an older gentleman in style and design. Each sole is stamp with “Hamilton Brown Shoe Co. Watch Us” logo. The inventory markers on the interior read 4 EE73968. The very early elastic band used in their

design is notable. It is marked with Hub Gore. This elastic was created for use in shoe-making and one of the first mentions of its manufacture and usage dates to 1883. The front linen lining is stamped with 640.
There is not an overly obvious indication of left or right shaped sole found with this shoe style, which was not uncommon for this particular design. The length of the sole from toe to heel is 9-1/2 inches or 24.2 cm. The widest point of the sole is 3-1/8 inches or 8 cm. The width at the
slightly squared off toe is 2-1/4 inches or 5.7 cm. The heel of the shoe has internal support. The heel cap height is 2-7/8 inches or 7 cm. 

The box measures approximately 5-3/8 x 12 x 3-1/2 inches or 13.7 x 30.5 x 9 cm. The box is deteriorating due to the acidic nature of the cardboard. 

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Civil War Era circa 1865 Tintype with Haunting, Handsome Image of Unknown Sitter





This is an authentic tintype that has been dated to 1865 when the Civil War ended with the surrender at Appomattox Court House on April 9th. It is 149 years old.

Please refer to the digitally enlarged image attached, especially made so that you can more clearly see his face. It is so wonderful to see even the hairs on his neck in such a beautiful tintype. And oh, those sparkling blue eyes. The photographer captured such a haunting pose and this unknown gent successfully held so very still!

The young gentleman is dressed stylishly...his eyes are obviously pale blue. The photographer has graced his image by hand-coloring the cheeks ever so slightly pink. This was a common enhancement that indicated the sitter was filled with life...especially as precious as life was after such a horrible war. 

This tintype is unique as it has the embossed paper sleeves that were invented especially for tintype mounts. The type of embossing and the printed words reading "Patent Applied For" are known to date this tintype to 1865 precisely. These type of mounting cards are also collectible and considered an important part of photography's history. This paper is actually embossed with one of two Potter's patent marks...his other actually states the date of March 7, 1865.

On the back, there is the 2 cent orange Washington tax stamp, which also dates this to 1865.

The tintype photograph has no identification on it whatsoever. The image is crisp and clear, in antique excellent condition with minor scratches. There is minor foxing on the embossed paper sleeve. It measures approximately 2-3/8 inches or 10 cm by nearly 4 inches or 10 cm overall and is in near mint condition. Obviously, there is no watermark on the actual image.



The Year Was 1912...actual historical film footage.

Luxurious Antique Edwardian Supple Suede Boots


Supple, soft chocolate colored suede leather....

The boots date to the Edwardian through the extended Titanic era time lines, circa 1909-1912.

At first glance, the boots appear as though they were never used, but their soles are gently worn from either a dance floor or at home wear. 

In fact, a department store paper label is still attached to one of the soles. Sadly, this is no longer legible.

The boots are, however, labeled on the inside. Alongside inventory numbers, the Lazarus department store logo is stamped upon the wide, supple leather facing. The logo was embossed with genuine gold leaf and this is obvious since it has not tarnished nor changed color over time. The Lazurus logo glistens!

Lazurus was a beloved, elegant department store at Columbus, Ohio. These boots still have the same glamorous appearance now as they once did a over a century ago.

They are calf length in height with hand sewn, suede uppers. The lacings travel through 19 pairs of holes, lined with canvas and the front tongue edges are faced with leather.

The boots are designed with a 3 inch or 7.6 cm spool heel. There is no size measurement marking. The total length of each sole is 11 inches or 28 cm. The widest point across the sole measure 2 5/8 inch or 6.8 cm. The boots are considered quite narrow in width in comparison to shoe sizing today.

The overall condition is outstanding and many people will have a difficult time believing that these boots are indeed antiqueuntil they examine them closely.  Yes, they are quite authentic and at excellent plus condition in our opinionperhaps even a notch above. 

The laces are slightly discolored and may be cleaned by a professional. The leather is beautifully supple overall. Please refer to the photographs. 

Although the boots might be strong enough to be wearable, we do not recommend this in any way as their value lies in their style as well as ultra fine condition. Certainly, they will be eye-catching for any exhibition or discerning private collection.


Monday, September 15, 2014

Edwardian Spats or Spatterdashes Dated to 1901 in Original Box




Imagine popping back into time to go shopping...circa 1901... and coming home to 2014 with a boxed pair of warm, woolen spats complete with the button hook just as originally packaged....

This seems like a dream...but these incredible spatterdashes will make you feel as though you lived it!


They are indeed truly authentic. They are from the Edwardian era and dated to circa 1901 based on style, labeling, the maker's history and even the manufacturing logo on the lid from the box company.

The spatterdashes are in their original box labeled: G.G. Brown's High Grade Perfect Fitting Spats. The color is listed as "Faun." Still stitched together just as they were when offered for sale over 113 years ago...these spats have never, ever been used.
Hand sewn.They are made from a very light olive colored woven wool that has also been felted. The buckled strap and edging is made from soft, supple leather. There are four tortoise shell buttons on each spat and they come with the original metal button hook that was included in the box from G.G. Brown. The box itself is labeled as having been made by the Rhoades Paper Box Company.


The size on the box indicate that the spats will fit a size 11. We have measured and researched these sizing conversions from this era compared to ours, and can only offer that there is no comparison.  The height of the spats on the inside is 4 3/4 inches or 12 cm. The length at the longest point is 9 1/2 inches or 24 cm. 

Certainly, the value of these is due to their unworn condition and that they remain in their original packaging with original button hook. There is, luckily, no damage from moths nor acidic discolorations due to the packaging. This is simply a glorious find that will truly be appreciated by both curators and discerning private collectors. 

Rare Antique Victorian Boots Were Target Marketed to Women Involved with Suffragette Movement


These Victorian boots are shiny, black and look as though they were only worn yesterday. Their brand name, Sorosis, is stamped on the interior of each boot. This label has a documented history indicating that these were styled by the shoe company with the women's suffragette movement entirely in mind.

Suffragettes tended to be fashionable women and used their chic style to attract attention to the women's rights movement. The workmanship is sublime. The soles are in wonderful condition. These boots are over 115 years old and they will certainly delight the eye and inspire the imagination.

The boots have the Sorosis brand name stamped on their interiors. This name was first introduced in 1897 by the company that made them, A.E. Little Shoe Company. The boots date to circa 1898 based on their style, silhouette and the typography used in the company's brand logo.

According to Pam Peterson at the Marblehead Museum and Historical Society at Marblehead, Massachusetts:



"The name "Sorosis" refers to the most successful shoes made by A.E Little Shoe Company, Sorosis shoes for women. The name Sorosis is derived from the ancient Greek word for sisterhood and was also the name of a famous women's suffrage group of the late 19th and early 20th centuries." -- See "Marblehead 101: The Sorosis Farm" To find this, simply Google the name as listed here for an immediate link.

There are 19 pairs of lacing holes, which are made from enameled paint covered metal eyelets. Their total height is 10-1/4 inches or 26 cm. The shaft height is 7-7/8 inches or 20 cm. This measurement begins at the point where the heel is connected to the leather upper at the back of the boot, ending at the top. 
Finally, the approximate length of the sole is 11 inches or 28 cm. The widest part of the sole is 2-3/4 inches or 7 cm.







     Original photography & text copyright 2014 J. Henri

     •••• Please use images and text with appropriate citations. ••••

Thank you!

This portfolio has been created to document the images and descriptions used within my online shop. This is where many of the antique and vintage hats, clothing, accessories and fine textiles that have been used in our research are sold. The Gilded Griffin shop supports the work we are doing on written projects about historical fashions and the women’s millinery industries.

If you would like to see more...
simply Google

The Gilded Griffin

for a link to the shop's current location.
-------------

Vintage 1940s Homburg by Stetson


This is a vintage Royal Stetson Homburg from the 1940s.

The felt feels like the softest cashmere to the hand. The quality is divine.


True to homburg design, the hat features a deep center crease in the tall crown. It has a firm, upturned brim that is edged with slightly contrasting silk grosgrain. A warm black silk grosgrain band surrounds the crown, and finished with a sharp bow.

This beaver hat dates to between 1945-1947 by its unique label. It is an exquisite example of a post World War II homburg. 



Scarlet Red 1940s Plumed Hat with Original Veil


Scarlet red and gorgeous.

This was the millinery silhouette required to top those 1940s broad shouldered dresses or suits with slim pencil skirts.  

The hat was obviously designed for a bold, energetic woman who was not afraid to show her colors.  It has all the class and style that  first debuted in France when Christian Dior launched The New Look, early in 1947.  It dates to circa 1948. 

The hat is worn at a flirty tilt and held in place with a millinery elastic. It features the original, heavily textured, French silk veil
that is unusually perfect. The upward thrusting feathered trim is mounted upon the same felted wool panels as that from which the hat is made. The trim is made from slightly iridescent French coq.

The hat's designer label is missing, unfortunately. However, the  millinery union label is there and also points this era. This hat is a wonderful example of post World War II millinery fashions.

Civil War Era Miser's Purse Dates to Circa 1862





From a Maine estate, this is a black silk miser's purse. It appears as though it was never used...or if so, then the original owner was very gentle indeed.  This Civil War era purse is unique and almost magical to examine, because there appear to be no openings. Yet, the strings do pull apart in such a way as to open the double pouches so that coins, paper notes or any type of small object may be inserted safely inside. The purse closes when the strings are
pulled back into place, and the openings become almost invisible.

Of course, the purse appears as though the coins are permanently inside since there's no obvious way to extract them. This is how the miser's purse got its name. 

The purse is crocheted with black, plied silk, hand spun yarn.
The silver washed metallic beaded fringe is interwoven, creating a braided effect that echoes the textures of the crochet work.  The metal ring allows the purse to be attached to the dress or worn over a finger. This miser's purse measures 17.5 inches or 44 cm in total length. 




Thursday, September 11, 2014

Vintage 1950s Red Velvet Dress Trimmed with Original Owner's Rhinestone Brooch






There is something magical about finding antique or vintage clothing with stories or hints about the original owner. 

This dress has that appeal since its original rhinestone jewelled brooch remains in place from when it was last worn about 6 decades ago.

It is lipstick red and it is quite a beautiful example dating to the late 1950s. 

Made from soft cotton velveteen, the dress drapes beautifully over the figure.

The paneled circle skirt has one pocket on the right side and its length ends just below the knee.

The front of the dress has a dropped princess cut, although the waist is actually centered across the hips. 

Seamstresses and clothing designers, especially, will find it interesting that there are no shoulder seams to  interfere with the bodice's sleek design. The original 1950s embroidered label read Tonny Herbert Original. 

There is no background information about this designer to offer, even though we have spent a goodly amount of time doing the research.

The original rhinestone brooch is original to the dress. It has 14 glistening rhinestones along the bar, including one that caps each end. 

This brilliant dress is entirely authentic and its design features that graceful silhouette which accentuates those unmistakable 1950s curves.  

It will make a magnificent, eye-catching display for museums, especially for 1950s Holiday displays.

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Vintage Hat! A Glorious Fur Felted Floppy Hat From Swizerland!



This is a wonderful, classic floppy brimmed hat from the 1960s. It is made with luxurious heavyweight, long fibered fur felt and was
imported from Zürich Switzerland.

The brim undulates. It is strong enough to shape, depending on your mood. That is, the edge of the brim is meant to be tugged a little here or there...seductively...over one eye or the other.

This hat was first purchased by a very well-to-do lady during the mid-1960s. The story behind it is that the family took many trips to Switzerland for skiing vacations and the original owner purchased it during one of their pleasant times together. 

The brim is wider at the front than in the back of the hat. It has a tall crown...tall enough for tall hair or hair twisted up inside.... The felt is so soft, one cannot help but to stroke it.... 

This is a fine example of one of the last definitive styles found in antique and vintage millinery historical timelines.


Monday, September 8, 2014

Vintage California 1950s Sun Dress


This wonderful sundress was designed and sold in sunny California during the mid 1950s. 

Both elegant and seductive, it is designed to show off your feminine curves and hourglass figure. The design has that Marilyn Monroe styled silhouette...it is certainly made for that 36-24-36 figure that was so sensual and fashionable during this era.

It is made from mercerized cotton twill with that unmistakable, satin-like lustre. The rich, romantic blue, lilac, gray and beige floral print is carefully cut, matched and perfectly pieced together.

The high-busted, sweetheart neckline is held in place with a total of 16 violet-colored spring straps. The natural waist is tightly tailored at 24 inches or 61 cm.

The bodice is fully lined with cotton muslin.

There are no stays. The high bust has central horizontal double darts and measures 36 inches or 91.44 cm. The bodice is designed to close with a long metal zipper at the back. 


The label reads Billy-Dee Made in California. 



Vintage Hat Vintage Hat Vintage Hat.... Oh! What a Great Vintage Hat!





Vintage Hat 
Vintage Hat
Vintage Hat
Oh!
What a Beautiful Vintage Hat!

Asymmetrical design with sharp tilts to one side of the head were ubiquitous millinery silhouettes during the early 1930s. This is an exquisite example dated to 1932.

Masterfully designed, the toque is made from heavenly soft, felted cashmere. Molded over a wooden millinery form, the hat drapes perfectly over the head in secure, comfortable style.

The hat's trim is absolutely exquisite. It is a long drooping pom placed at one side of the face. Each of the long, perfect barbs were selected and trimmed from off a luxurious black ostrich plume. These were gathered into a kind of bouquet, wrapped inside a felted cashmere holder and stitched firmly in place. The result is a drooping pom that gracefully dances in the air. 

The hat is so very soft, that one cannot help but to absent-mindedly stroke it. This is a fine example of what the early 1930s millinery masters created for the fashionable upper class woman. Unfortunately, the millinery label is missing...but the glamour remains.

The Gilded Griffin...Welcome!


This portfolio has been created to document the images and descriptions used within my online shop. This is where many of the antique and vintage hats, clothing, accessories and fine textiles that have been used in our research are sold. The Gilded Griffin shop supports the work we are doing on written projects about historical fashions and the women’s millinery industries.

If you would like to see more...
simply Google

The Gilded Griffin

for a link to the shop's current location.


     Original photography & text copyright 2014 J. Henri

     Please use images and text with appropriate citations.

Thank you!




1930's Hollywood Fashion Show



Vintage Clothing 1940s Moordale Suit Made to Pass for Couture with Hand Tailoring



According to our research, this suit dates to 1949 based on the fashion illustrations and advertisements produced by the company, Moordale Casuals Incorporated.

Moordale produced elegant suits for upper class women starting in 1942 when they first registered their trademark and name.

Mooredale's advertisements appear in some of the most exclusive fashion magazines including Vogue during their early years. Some fo the most famous runway and photography models worked for Moordale. The company's logo was Junior suits, a size...not an age.

Moordale's suits were designed and marketed that their tailoring
appeared to be couture, when it was actually ready-to-wear. However, the overall quality and design is immediately evident with this suit and such gorgeous tailoring is rarely seen in today's ready-to-wear market. In fact, only the most basic piecing is done by machine on this suit. The rest is entirely hand sewn.

The suit features a flared jacket with perfect princess seams and double breasted darts. The sleeves end just above the wrist and are designed to be accessorized with fine gloves. The slim pencil skirt looks absolutely sleek beneath the fitted, high waisted jacket.

There are five hand-covered, fabric buttons with hand sewn button holes. The collar and double lapels are hand finished. Four glass rhinestones add just the right amount of tasteful sparkle. These are prong-set in brass findings. The elegant mauve lining is made from heavy rayon crêpe.