Vintage Couture: Rare Archie Eason Cartwheel Hat

This early Archie Eason cartwheel hat has every design feature found during the beginning of the New Look style that became immediately prevalent through Dior's work and worn by fashionable, wealthy women beginning about 1953. 

This particular Eason couture hat is destined for a museum or discerning collection. It will be an eye-catching showstopper for exhibition with that massive, glistening brim measuring about 18 inches or nearly 46 cm across. This design is most assuredly a one-of-a-kind hat created by this master milliner. 

The hat bears Eason's nearly secret couture mark. He has sewn single tiny sequin with matching glass bead atop the brim. This barely noticeable sequin and bead are the glittery indicators for the wearer so that the hat may be quickly placed upon the head. Of course, only Eason's couture hats have this tiny signature. 

The hat is entirely hand made and hand sewn. It features a skull cap with that early 1950s widow's peak design, which also helps to date this hat more specifically on a fashion timeline. The under supports are made entirely from woven horsehair. Overall, the hat is constructed from an unusual fiber that appears to be silk gauze. However, a fiber burn test reveals that this is a unique type of cellophane material. The material alone will be of interest to collectors and fashion historians. 

The hat is a very light peach color with gray undertones. The handmade silk flowers are an antique ivory color. The hat is not faded but appears vintage in the overall look as the colors are not bright. Again, close inspection reveals that the hat has not faded in any way, and the slight gray tones are likely the result of the patina that only time can create with certain textiles and fibers. 

This hat is quite special. It is in excellent condition overall and rated at a very high excellent condition, considering age. It is pristine both inside and out without any stains, holes, makeup marks and other problems typically found with millinery examples from this era. An unusual feature is that the interior of the skull cap is faced with silk grosgrain. This was obviously done to protect the hat against the usual problems from wear. The beautiful embroidered Archie Eason silk satin couture label is intact. It is wearable, but hopefully only for special occasions since the hat is considered historically important. It measures to fit a generous size 23 inches or 58.5 cm. The hat may be worn by smaller sizes depending upon the style of the hair. A small hat pin, as found, is included. 

Vintage 1950s Motoring Headscarf, Italian Hand-Embroidered Silk Chiffon

Supremely elegant. 

This is exactly the quality and style of headscarf that one would expect to find Hollywood royalty wearing while traveling in their roadster, circa 1955. 

It will certainly make hearts race…. 

The hand embroidery appears as if worked in genuine gold…but it is silk. 

Silk on silk. 

The details and colors are rich, delicate, feminine. The hand stitched design was created by a master embroiderer. 

This work of fine textile art is certainly considered museum quality. 

The warm pale ivory silk chiffon is airy…so light that merely a whisper will make the scarf float in the air. Yet, the silk is woven so that it is sturdy enough to hold the embroidery which must have taken weeks, if not longer, to render. Breathtaking. 

Embroidery this fine is typically found on priests’ religious vestments. The silks, style and colors appear Italian. 

The monogram is M. It measures 23.5 inches or 59.5 cm square. The scarf is entirely hand sewn and beautifully finished with hand rolled hem.

Vintage 1950s Bubble Dress With Crinoline

Authentic to the 1950s, this is a magnificent example of a glamorous lipstick red bubble cocktail dress, styled with original brilliant blue crinolines beneath, as found. The set is in vintage near mint condition. 

It is one of a kind and this is decidedly obvious upon close inspection by the type of stitching and construction methods. The dress appears that this may have been made by a young designer for either herself or a paying client. It is both machine sewn and hand finished. 

Everyone who happened to pass through the photography studio while the dress was being shot on the mannequin was drawn to it. Even the men made a second glance at the mannequin. The dress is absolutely stunning. 

This is the epitome of 1950s glamour and the color could not be more feminine. Created from crimson red cotton velvet, the dress is beautifully tailored and features all the design bells and whistles that could ever be found in a dress like this, authentic to circa 1958. 

With three quarter sleeves and deep neckline styled to enhance a 36 inch or 91.5 cm bust line, the dress is meant to be worn with a push-up bra. The plunging V back is beautifully designed to enhance a woman’s natural curves. 

The fitted waistline slims the waist visually with ruching, and the skirt almost explodes with yard upon yard of fabric. It is absolutely delicious to wear. The crinolines were found with the dress and are regal royal blue. They tease the eye with hints of contrasting color. 

The waist measures at 27.5 inches or 70 cm. The shoulder width, measured at the back, is 18 inches or 145.5 cm. The total length from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the hem is 45 inches or 114.5 cm. The magnificent undulated sweep is 85.5 inches or 220 cm . The skirt length from waist to hem is approximately 29 to 30 inches or 73.5 to 76 cm, measured against the gathered seams. It is lined with cherry red tulle that is designed to support the weight of the bubbled skirt design. 

The interior bodice is unlined but finished with faced seams. The sleeves are 14.5 inches or 37 cm in length with an opening circumference of 11 inches or 28 cm. 

There is a very small label stitched inside the skirt with numbers on it. This appears to be for the designer’s records. There are no names, dates nor any locations mentioned on that label. This was likely referring to the style notations and design efforts involved. The dress has a full zipper in the back with hook and eye closures. 

The crinoline slip is magnificent. There is a label inside and it reads “L-3 50 yards Petti Puff by Ruthe 21” The multi-layers of gathered tulle that make up the slip are perfect for this dress and easily hold the weight of the skirt. The tulle is trimmed with matching lace (please refer to the photograph). The slip is made to pull on and its elastic is supple and strong. This slip beautifully fits well beneath the dress. 

This is a stunning example of the bubble dress style, and certainly strong enough and elegant enough to wear. It will make an eye catching display for curators and will truly be appreciated by anyone who loves 1950s glamour.

Vintage California 1950s Sun Dress

This wonderful sundress was designed and sold in sunny California during the mid 1950s. 

Both elegant and seductive, it is designed to show off your feminine curves and hourglass figure. The design has that Marilyn Monroe styled silhouette...it is certainly made for that 36-24-36 figure that was so sensual and fashionable during this era.

It is made from mercerized cotton twill with that unmistakable, satin-like lustre. The rich, romantic blue, lilac, gray and beige floral print is carefully cut, matched and perfectly pieced together.

The high-busted, sweetheart neckline is held in place with a total of 16 violet-colored spring straps. The natural waist is tightly tailored at 24 inches or 61 cm.

The bodice is fully lined with cotton muslin.

There are no stays. The high bust has central horizontal double darts and measures 36 inches or 91.44 cm. The bodice is designed to close with a long metal zipper at the back. 

The label reads Billy-Dee Made in California.