Monday, December 29, 2014

The Gilded Age: Rare Antique Victorian Marabou Shawl, Stole or Scarf circa 1899

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Lovely and rare. This regal, black Victorian marabou shawl or stole is an incredible find. In utterly sublime condition, the stole dates to the final breath of The Gilded Age, circa 1899. 
This would have been quite a costly fashion accessory in its day. It is made of downy marabou feathers and trimmed with a tortoise shell chain, complimented with simple silk passementerie. Genuine marabou were unquestionably a regal luxury during this era. The delicate feathers are still soft as an angel’s wing and people ask if this is black swan's down. No, apparently these were even rarer and more luxurious than that. 
This rare, glorious example of Victorian fashion will make discerning collectors absolutely delighted. Amazingly enough, the condition is near mint. If this was ever worn, it was done so with incredible love and care. The silk foundation is exceptionally gorgeousand strong. There is no sign of shattering. 
At approximately 115 years of age and entirely hand sewn, the stole is absolutely fascinating to examine. It is thoroughly covered with many rows of tiny, down feathers that were individually hand-tied into roping. The feathers remain incredibly delicate and are so soft that they are beyond description. 
The feathered roping was hand sewn onto a weighty silk crêpe foundation, which was designed to properly support that sea of costly feathers. In a finishing touch, the stole was styled with six large, downy fringes. These were intentionally created to resemble the fur tails used for regal capes worn by fashionable queens during the previous century. 
Marabou feathers during the Gilded Age were costly and rareeven more so than most fur at the time. This stole was an absolute luxury for the woman who owned it. All we know about the original owner is that she was from the northern part of coastal New England and this item was acquired through an estate sale. Yes, we too wish that we knew who she was…. 
This exquisite piece of fashion history should be destined for a fine privately held collection or museum. It is wearable, but if so, should be carefully used. The value of this stole relies on the exquisite condition that it is in. Also, it must be noted that the marabou feathers tend to shed. This may be why this stole was not worn often, if at all, over 115 years ago. Although the stole is supple, remarkably strong and fresh to the touch, the feathery fluff does tend to flutter off and may well be noticed. This is another reason why display is recommended for this exceptional piece.
In near mint condition, or perhaps a notch above, this antique stole features a 7 inch (or 18 cm) long carved tortoiseshell chain, plus both hook and eye and also early snap closures, all original. The very early snap fastener found inside a silk passementerie ball trim was used to identify the era during which this piece was made. 
Overall, the stole, scarf or shawl measures approximately 30 inches long without its feathery fringe. There are six “tails” of fringe and each measure slightly over 6 inches or 15 cm in length. The widest section of the stole, measured in the middle to the back, is 6.50 inches or 16.5 cm. 


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