Victorian Maternity Blouse circa 1890, Appropriate for Deep Mourning

This early ready-to-wear mourning maternity blouse dates to circa 1890. It is simply one of those worth saving...an article of clothing that is worthy of historical study. 

Although in very poor condition overall, the blouse was made by one of the first ready-to-wear clothing companies and was also designed for maternity wear. This alone makes it unusual and noteworthy. The blouse also documents not only mourning in fashion history, but mourning for those who could not easily afford to follow fashion etiquette dictates at that time. 

During the Victorian era, there were strict social rules about the length of time spent in mourning. According to several fashion magazines from this period, full mourning could last as long as three years according to etiquette. This depended upon the woman’s relationship to the deceased and could even dictate what a woman wore if she even felt the slightest grief for a friend’s passing. Finally, a woman would enter a period called half mourning where small amounts of white, gray or violet colored accents were allowed. If there were multiple deaths to mourn during this time, a woman could spend many, many years of her life wearing only black clothing. 

Fashion couturiers responded by opening shops that sold only mourning attire. The specialized clothing was costly to families whose social and business statuses were often judged by what they wore. 

“Deep” or “First” mourning were the terms used for the immediate time following a beloved’s death. It was well documented that only lusterless fabrics were acceptable for wear. No decorations were allowed except for simple tape bands. Indeed, this blouse was made for the beginning stages of Deep Mourning and was also designed to accommodate the final stages of pregnancy. Yet, the wide silk lace around the bottom was added by the original owner well after it was first purchased. Likely, it was added after yet another death and during yet another pregnancy. 

Victorian fashion and social etiquette considered a woman’s pregnancy bump somewhat vulgar. However, there was little one could about this during the final months for most women and so maternity blouses were required. The need was answered with ready-to-wear designs sold through mail order catalogues for those who could not afford to have one specially made. 

This blouse has a ready-to-wear label that reads Better Made, Trademark. This label helps to identify when it was originally sold, circa 1890. The blouse was worn time and time again. It was also mended and altered many times by its original owner. Furthermore, it was passed on to yet another woman who wore a slightly different size and who also needed a maternity mourning blouse. 

If one takes the time to count the seams, it is obvious that this blouse was resized, reshaped, mended and altered to accommodate more than one pregnancy as well as more than one death. The blouse was used so many times, in fact, that it would have been considered in poor condition over a century ago. However, these many alterations make it all the more rare today. It is certainly filled with history and stories that we can only guess through examining its seams and the fabric it is made from...fabric worn so thin, so long ago, from use. For instance, one cannot help but speculate that the reason why the front of the blouse is worn so thin is because the area seems to outline where more than one baby rested in the arms of the wearer.

The blouse sparks the imagination. Simply to touch it makes wonder as to whom it originally owned it and what their circumstances were. It is a rare find, even in this condition. The Gilded Griffin shop typically does not carry items in poor condition under any circumstances. In fact, items must be in outstanding, excellent condition or above to be considered for inventory here. Yet, this worthwhile piece of American women’s history is being offered because it is so unique, and we hope that it will find an appreciative new owner.

Condition and measurements: The silk is shattering in several areas over the blouse. It has been altered from the original state several times. The flat braid decorative banding is original, but the wide lace was added after its original purchase. The slightly puffed sleeves are shattering at the elbows…that is, where the elbows were before the sleeves were shortened over a century ago (please see photographs). Several pleats have been altered by the original owner(s) and the silk is shattering where the original folds were located. The mid front plaque was added later by its last owner. There are mendings by the original owner(s). The original hook and eye closures are intact. The neckline and inner yoke are faced.

The blouse is in poor condition and is not strong enough for wear. It is excellent for research, study and pattern measurements. The sleeves measure approximately 22 inches or 56 cm in length. The shoulder width is approximately 17 inches or 43 cm from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. The waist circumference is 10.5 inches or 26.8 cm. The hemline around the bottom (the sweep) is approximately 83 inches or 211 cm. The bust area measures approximately 49 inches or 124.5 cm in circumference as the blouse widens from the neck. The neck opening is 21.75 inches or 55.3 cm.