Monday, December 29, 2014

Vintage 1940s Gauntlet Gloves in Kid Leather Accurately Date Between 1946-1947



In vintage near mint condition, their glamorous style and quality are what first catches the eye. Obviously, these wonderful bone-colored, kid leather gloves are in that stylish 1940s gauntlet design. 
However, it is the interior labeling that will grab your attention. That seemingly minor blue stamp inside accurately dates their manufacture to between the post-WWII years of 1946-1947. 
Following WWII, Germany was divided into four zones after the Allied Nations defeated Hitler and the Nazis. These occupational zones were shared between the United States, United Kingdom, France and Soviet Union. These gloves were manufactured in Germany during this time of revitalization. We know this because of this particular glove company’s history coupled with the label marked “Made in Germany US Zone.”
The company was ARIS. ARIS was started in California by Arthur, Robert and Irwin Stanton during 1910 and the name is an acronym of their initials. The company owned a glove manufacturing plant in Germany, which was seized by the Nazis when the United States entered the war. At the end of the war following September 2, 1945, the California based ARIS glove company began work again in occupied Germany. Then in 1947, the United Kingdom and United States formed a unified zone agreement. Therefore, it is safe to say that these gloves were imported to the United States for sale sometime between 1946 to 1947. 
(see Evans, Judicial Decisions “Wartime confiscation of private property, Paris Reparation Agreement, 1946”) 
The gloves are made from exquisite and divinely soft kid leather. They have that definitive angled silhouette at the wrist, which is accented with eight kid leather flowers. The gloves are entirely hand sewn. Their quality is luxurious. 
They appear to have been worn and are in clean, vintage near mint condition. 
The gloves are accurately sized as a size 7 US or 7 EU. They are designed with ample room in the fingers for fashionable nails. Although they appear to have been gently worn, perhaps only once...these lovely nearly white gloves are a rare find.

The Gilded Age: Rare Antique Victorian Marabou Shawl, Stole or Scarf circa 1899

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Lovely and rare. This regal, black Victorian marabou shawl or stole is an incredible find. In utterly sublime condition, the stole dates to the final breath of The Gilded Age, circa 1899. 
This would have been quite a costly fashion accessory in its day. It is made of downy marabou feathers and trimmed with a tortoise shell chain, complimented with simple silk passementerie. Genuine marabou were unquestionably a regal luxury during this era. The delicate feathers are still soft as an angel’s wing and people ask if this is black swan's down. No, apparently these were even rarer and more luxurious than that. 
This rare, glorious example of Victorian fashion will make discerning collectors absolutely delighted. Amazingly enough, the condition is near mint. If this was ever worn, it was done so with incredible love and care. The silk foundation is exceptionally gorgeousand strong. There is no sign of shattering. 
At approximately 115 years of age and entirely hand sewn, the stole is absolutely fascinating to examine. It is thoroughly covered with many rows of tiny, down feathers that were individually hand-tied into roping. The feathers remain incredibly delicate and are so soft that they are beyond description. 
The feathered roping was hand sewn onto a weighty silk crêpe foundation, which was designed to properly support that sea of costly feathers. In a finishing touch, the stole was styled with six large, downy fringes. These were intentionally created to resemble the fur tails used for regal capes worn by fashionable queens during the previous century. 
Marabou feathers during the Gilded Age were costly and rareeven more so than most fur at the time. This stole was an absolute luxury for the woman who owned it. All we know about the original owner is that she was from the northern part of coastal New England and this item was acquired through an estate sale. Yes, we too wish that we knew who she was…. 
This exquisite piece of fashion history should be destined for a fine privately held collection or museum. It is wearable, but if so, should be carefully used. The value of this stole relies on the exquisite condition that it is in. Also, it must be noted that the marabou feathers tend to shed. This may be why this stole was not worn often, if at all, over 115 years ago. Although the stole is supple, remarkably strong and fresh to the touch, the feathery fluff does tend to flutter off and may well be noticed. This is another reason why display is recommended for this exceptional piece.
In near mint condition, or perhaps a notch above, this antique stole features a 7 inch (or 18 cm) long carved tortoiseshell chain, plus both hook and eye and also early snap closures, all original. The very early snap fastener found inside a silk passementerie ball trim was used to identify the era during which this piece was made. 
Overall, the stole, scarf or shawl measures approximately 30 inches long without its feathery fringe. There are six “tails” of fringe and each measure slightly over 6 inches or 15 cm in length. The widest section of the stole, measured in the middle to the back, is 6.50 inches or 16.5 cm. 


Sunday, December 28, 2014

1920s Burson Knitting Company Stockings for Women with Label



This pair of women’s black stockings dates to circa 1920 and still have the original Burson knitting mill label attached. They were never worn, and a wonderful find.
Burson Knitting Mills began in Rockford, Illinois. The company was known for patenting women's hosiery designs that were shaped to fit the graceful curves of a woman’s leg. These were also designed to "not easily rip".

Please refer to the scan reproduced here, at your the left, of a Burson advertisement for this style of hosiery taken from an early 1921 fashion magazine in the library at The Gilded Griffin.


A trade publication, “Textile World Record” from 1908, published that Burson Knitting Company was operating at that time using “750 latch needle knitting and 100 sewing machines on Burson fashioned hosiery for women. The plant is operated by steam power and has complete yarn and piece dying establishment. As reported...the capital stock has been increased from $500,000 to $800,000."
By 1920, Burson was advertising their stockings in nearly every magazine and book that was of even the slightest interest to women. They promoted their comfortable, seamless hosiery in heavy-weight silk or mercerized cotton, with claims that these would fit so well that the stockings would never gape or gather around the ankles. Their diverse fashion advertising featured working girl models, elegant upper class ladies, as well as riqué, flapper-styled silent film actresses.

It is always delightful to find vintage fashions in an unworn state!

These stockings were made circa 1920 in Burson's heavy-weight silk, and were designed to have the look and feel of wool, according to the company's promotions. The golden label with the Burson “Knit-to-fit Fashioned hose without a seam” is still intact. Although the company organized in 1892, the Knit-to-Fit logo appears to have been first used around 1919.  
The stockings are an exciting find. Indeed, they are most certainly made to look like wool, and will fool most people at first glance...even experienced collectors. This is just as Burson claimed in their advertising and trade publications nearly a century ago! 
They are 28.5 inches or 72.5 cm in lengthand again...just like the Burson Knitting Company promisedthey do still seem to hold their original shape quite beautifullyeven after 95 years! 



Vintage Hat! Futuristic 1960s Hat by Jillé





This brilliant vintage hat makes a colorful statement! It is designed to slip over a sharply bobbed hair style that was made especially famous by the fashion model icon Twiggy, circa 1966. 
The hat was designed by Jillé, a millinery label is known for elite feathered hats fashioned between the 1950s through the early 70s. This hat is dated to the mid-1960s when psychedelic colors and futuristic designs were not only spotlighted on couture runways but also featured in every ready-to-wear collection. 
The hat is built upon an elegant neon pink, felted wool foundation. This was perfectly covered with individually applied feathers and trimmed with a glorious bouquet of futuristic feathered flowers. It is entirely hand-made in a process that took many hours to design and complete. This is a glorious example of mid-1960s millinery art. 
This vintage hat is in excellent condition to near mint condition overall. All feathers are completely intact and the hat is strong and wearable with tender loving care, since its value relies on the glorious condition that it is in presently. Needless to say, this wonderful creation will make a most eye-catching exhibit display piece! 
The hat measures to fit 22 inches or 56 cm. If you have thick hair, the hat’s placement will align slightly further back on the head than what is seen in the photographs attached. The condition is excellent or for most, near mint. The label does show signs of discoloration due to the chemistry of the original adhesive used to apply it. Of course, the interior of the hat is faced with matching grosgrain. 

Friday, December 26, 2014

Great Gatsby Era Vintage 1920s Silk Teddy


Strong and beautiful, this sea foam colored teddy is kissed with beige lace and drapes gracefully over the body. 
The teddy slides over the head and buttons between the legs with two slim mother-of-pearl buttons. These slip smoothly into hand sewn button holes. Silk ribbons strap the shoulders. With a unique design, asymmetrical silk ribbons are designed to wrap around the waist at the back and tie up with a bow next to the decorative silk lace appliqué. This exquisite piece of lingerie is beautifully tailored and hand finished. 
The teddy is a magnificent example of 1920s lingerie. This was truly the epitome of the sensual, feminine woman during circa 1925. One only needs garters! 

Rare. The teddy is strong and wearable with tender loving care. It would, of course, make a magnificent display for museum exhibit and will make an outstanding addition to any 1920s clothing and textiles collection. 
There is no maker’s mark of any kind. It is in beautiful condition, especially considering its age. The teddy measures to fit up to a 27 inch or 68.5 cm waist with a bust line measuring slightly over 32 inches or 81.5 cm. 
The chest band is 33.5 or 85 cm. The strap length is 14 inches or 35.5 cm. 
The measurement from the top of the teddy to the bottom of the leg is 24 inches or 61 cm. Length from the top of the back to the bottom of the crotch insert is 53.5 inches (135.5 cm) plus 7 inches (or 17.5 cm). The crotch insert alone is 7 inches or 17.5 cm, adding to 60.5 or 153 cm.



Vintage Women's Arctic Black Beaver Hat in Ushanka Design


Vogue glamour in a vintage hat. Extreme warmth. 
Want this. Because it is perfect. 
Luxury. Regal and costly when it was originally offered for sale. 
Now with sublime runway style…. 
This exquisite hat may well become one of your most prized possessions on the slopes or mountain trails. It will also catch any museum curator’s eye.... 
Created in genuine arctic black beaver, this hat is in vintage mint condition. It looks just like it did on the day it was first purchased and appears as if never worn. The style enhances the face, and especially the eyes. The luscious, luxurious fur surrounds the face with strong, yet feminine tailoring, in the classic Russian ushanka design.
No doubt, indeed, this hat is designed for both style as well as serious winter warmth. 
This hat is the definition of quality.... 
The supple, gorgeous fur is exceptionally warm. It naturally repels moisture in any form, whether snow, sleet or rain… The design will keep body heat from escaping. This hat is especially made to protect the cheeks, neck and face from chapping, chaffing and cold weather bruising. It protects against frostbite throughout the most severe winter weather. 
The classic design is both whimsical and elegant. The side panels seem to dance with your movement when left untied. However, when the hat is tied down around the chin, it will protect a most delicate face beneath. 
The style is exquisite. Modern versions cannot compare…. Again, we did the research…. … Even hair twisted up into a chignon inside depending on your hat size. The hat has a quilted lining in its interior and this appears to be filled with down. This exquisite vintage hat measures generously to fit 22 inches or 56 cm. It is in outstanding vintage mint condition. 
Gift perfect…. Typically, The Gilded Griffin does not include fur items for inventory. However, there are moments like this when a something special appears in the lighta piece that is meant to be cherished for future generations. This is one.

Vintage 1950s Tuscany Lamb Hat, Muff and Collar


This set is made from golden, plush Tuscany Lamb. It is finished with gold-plated findings and lined with silk velvetall authentic, vintage 1950s. 
The set consists of three pieces: a beautifully tailored hat, the muff that doubles as a purse and a clip-on collar. Each item appears to have to have never been worn and also appears to have been designed as one of a kind. It was first created over 65 years ago. 


You will find yourself absent-mindedly stroking each piecesavoring the exquisite softness. It is breathtaking; an exciting find. 
Rich, romantic and alluringthere is simply nothing like golden Tuscany Lamb from this erait is simply not found today.  are no condition issues evident anywhere. 



The condition is pristine and the items appear to never have been worn. There

The beautifully designed hat features a wide, upturned brim. It is lined with satin and faced with silk grosgrain. The hat measures to fit exactly at 22 inches or 56 cm. It was originally designed to sit slightly back off the face. Slightly smaller sizes may wear it tugged low, almost in a cloche style. The crown is 5.5 inches or 14 cm deep. Please refer to the photographs. 
The matching collar is exquisite and lined with silk velvet. It has matching velvet clamps on each end. The collar is therefore designed to clip onto a sweater or 
coat. It may be also be worn twisted up around the neck as seen in the photographs attached. The collar measures a magnificent 41 inches or 104.2 cm in length and is 4 inches or 10 cm wide at the widest point in the middle.

 
The muff is actually also a purse with silk roping for its wristlet. The purse created inside has enough space for a set of keys and an iPhone, plus. It is lined in matching satin. The interior of the zippered purse pouch is lined in contrasting regal purple. The findings appear to be genuine gold-plated. They are beautiful and in strong, glistening condition. The muff-purse is 10.5 inches or 27 cm in length overall. It has a circumference measurement (around) of 25 inches or 63.5 cm. The interior purse opening is generous and also measures 10.5 inches or 27 cm in width. 
The set will truly make an outstanding exhibit for museum displayand of course, will be a treasured acquisition for collectors. Please do remember that if intended for wear, its value is maintained through tender loving care….