Rare French 1920s Bowler, Derby ou Le Chapeau Melon

This is a magnificent 1920s men’s bowler (English), derby (American) or le chapeau melon as they say in France…which is exactly where this hat was created. 

This rare bowler comes from an estate near a resort area in upstate New York, and has never been on the market since it was first purchased during the Roaring Twenties. 

The hat was originally made in France.  It is in a larger size than most found from this era and the quality is absolutely breathtaking. This bowler is entirely hand sewn and finished. The firm, felted foundation is made of fine quality black wool. The crown is just under 5 inches or 12.is banded with silk grosgrain ribbon, and finished with a sharp, rectangular bow. The pristine interior is lined with white silk and faced with rich, supple leather. 

The regal Le Plumet logo is printed in black over genuine gold leaf. We know this is so because genuine gold was sometimes used in high end hatmaking. Gold is inert, and so it will not tarnish. This logo design simply glistens in the light…like the gold that it is! 

Le Plumet (The Plume) is the name of this French hatmaking company. Beneath the logo design, the word “Déposé Nos. 2492 & 3132” This refers to the inventory numbers on the hat blocks that were used to create this particular design. Also written on the interior logo are the words “Extra Quality” which gives proof that this wonderful gentleman's hat was also created with the British or Canadian market in mind. 

In absolutely splendid, near mint condition, this derby hat appears to have never been worn. It is truly a hat of most sublime quality.  If you plan to wear hats such as this, please remember that bowlers such as these are becoming quite rare, especially French made, and so condition matters a great deal for the long term value of this magnificent hat. 

There is a label on the interior that states the hat’s sizing. Often, when a beautiful hat such as this is found in this exemplary condition, I have found that it is because the sizing label is incorrect. This is true with this particular hat and quite likely the reason why it was never worn by its original owner. This is an exceedingly beautiful hat from the 1920s, and would make a glorious museum display.

Authentic Gatsby Era Tangerine Plumed Hat From JR Libby Company, Maine

The Roaring Twenties roared with color! 

This rare Gatsby Era, tangerine plumed hat dates to the early 1920s. Tangerine or lemon against black were popular colors in that day, and this hat is exemplary! 

Those luscious tangerine colored ostrich plumes are indeed original to the hat. You will know this immediately if you closely examine the stitches and threads that connect the feathers to their wire foundation. 

The hat was initially sold at the JR Libby Company department store. This was a grand place located in Portland, Maine. The store resembled a smaller version of Selfridge’s and an early image of it may be seen on the Maine Historical Society’s website. 

The hat was created on a sturdy, oval, wired foundation and entirely covered with ultra fine, silk tulle. The outer ribs of the foundation were covered with braided black straw. This also spirals around the crown of the hat. Finally, the hat was swathed in luxurious tangerine colored ostrich plumes which remain brilliant to this day. Black and tangerine were a most stylish color during the early 20s. 

This hat is incredibly comfortable when worn and those long plumes float elegantly in the air. It was designed for wear pulled down low over the forehead, and may also be worn at a slight sassy tilt. This is quite a rare and beautiful 1920s millinery gem that is destined for a discerning private collector or museum. It is becoming increasingly difficult to find hats such as this in such wonderful overall, wearable condition. 

The hat features a strong interior silk satin lining that is blazing with color as well. The beautifully embroidered logo reads “La Rose Hats, JR Libby Co.” 

This hat is in excellent condition overall…some might even believe that it is a notch above excellent. The silk tulle is fragile, but intact. The hat is indeed wearable with tender loving care for special occasions…as its value remains true based on its amazing condition.  The size measures to fit a generous 22 inches or 56 cm.

1920s Burson Knitting Company Stockings for Women with Label

This pair of women’s black stockings dates to circa 1920 and still have the original Burson knitting mill label attached. They were never worn, and a wonderful find.

Burson Knitting Mills began in Rockford, Illinois. The company was known for patenting women's hosiery designs that were shaped to fit the graceful curves of a woman’s leg. These were also designed to "not easily rip".

Please refer to the scan reproduced here, at your the left, of a Burson advertisement for this style of hosiery taken from an early 1921 fashion magazine in the library at The Gilded Griffin.

A trade publication, “Textile World Record” from 1908, published that Burson Knitting Company was operating at that time using “750 latch needle knitting and 100 sewing machines on Burson fashioned hosiery for women. The plant is operated by steam power and has complete yarn and piece dying establishment. As reported...the capital stock has been increased from $500,000 to $800,000."

By 1920, Burson was advertising their stockings in nearly every magazine and book that was of even the slightest interest to women. They promoted their comfortable, seamless hosiery in heavy-weight silk or mercerized cotton, with claims that these would fit so well that the stockings would never gape or gather around the ankles. Their diverse fashion advertising featured working girl models, elegant upper class ladies, as well as riqué, flapper-styled silent film actresses.

It is always delightful to find vintage fashions in an unworn state!

These stockings were made circa 1920 in Burson's heavy-weight silk, and were designed to have the look and feel of wool, according to the company's promotions. The golden label with the Burson “Knit-to-fit Fashioned hose without a seam” is still intact. Although the company organized in 1892, the Knit-to-Fit logo appears to have been first used around 1919.  

The stockings are an exciting find. Indeed, they are most certainly made to look like wool, and will fool most people at first glance...even experienced collectors. This is just as Burson claimed in their advertising and trade publications nearly a century ago! 

They are 28.5 inches or 72.5 cm in length…and again...just like the Burson Knitting Company promised…they do still seem to hold their original shape quite beautifully…even after 95 years! 

Great Gatsby Era Vintage 1920s Silk Teddy

Strong and beautiful, this sea foam colored teddy is kissed with beige lace and drapes gracefully over the body. 

The teddy slides over the head and buttons between the legs with two slim mother-of-pearl buttons. These slip smoothly into hand sewn button holes. Silk ribbons strap the shoulders. With a unique design, asymmetrical silk ribbons are designed to wrap around the waist at the back and tie up with a bow next to the decorative silk lace appliqué. This exquisite piece of lingerie is beautifully tailored and hand finished. 

The teddy is a magnificent example of 1920s lingerie. This was truly the epitome of the sensual, feminine woman during circa 1925. One only needs garters! 


Rare. The teddy is strong and wearable with tender loving care. It would, of course, make a magnificent display for museum exhibit and will make an outstanding addition to any 1920s clothing and textiles collection. 

There is no maker’s mark of any kind. It is in beautiful condition, especially considering its age. The teddy measures to fit up to a 27 inch or 68.5 cm waist with a bust line measuring slightly over 32 inches or 81.5 cm. 
The chest band is 33.5 or 85 cm. The strap length is 14 inches or 35.5 cm. 

The measurement from the top of the teddy to the bottom of the leg is 24 inches or 61 cm. Length from the top of the back to the bottom of the crotch insert is 53.5 inches (135.5 cm) plus 7 inches (or 17.5 cm). The crotch insert alone is 7 inches or 17.5 cm, adding to 60.5 or 153 cm.




1920s Couture Silk Faille Traveling Suit Remains Classic and Glamorous

This authentic 1920s ensemble features stunning design influences from both the Orient as well as the more masculine lines of a tuxedo. It is created from lustrous silk faille and pongee, circa 1927.  

Suit ensembles such as this were often designed for either fashionable automobile or train travel in mind. Skirts were long and silhouettes were sleek yet tailored for ease of movement.

This suit is exceptional. Perfectly tailored and also lined with exquisite silk pongee, the suit’s overall fabric is weighty enough to hang perfectly around the body.  This was not ready-to-wear, but a traveling suit custom created for a particular woman by a talented unknown designer. It is both hand sewn and machine stitched. 

The sleeveless slip styled dress has a delicate, yet strong, pongee bodice edged with lace. Tiny silk strips with snaps, beneath the shoulders, are designed to hold the bra straps well hidden and in place. The silk faille skirt features wide pleated folds on both sides. There is a single pocket in the skirt and two on the jacket, with silk arrowhead reinforcements at each corner. The bodice has 8 snap closures in the front. Please refer to the photographs. Also, please note that we have not pressed the suit nor cleaned the suit in any way. The photographs show some wrinkles in this suit, but to keep from setting any potential stains by the use of ironing, we have photographed this beautiful ensemble without touching any heat to it at all. 

The jacket features a wraparound kimono style with matching faille covered button using loop closures. The collar and sleeves are decorated with ivory top-stitched silk tape pleating, similar to what is used on tuxedos. Often collars were worn pulled up into a standing position around the head, which accentuated the sharp, closely shorn hairstyles that were popular at that time. 

Perhaps this suit was worn three times…. That is how lovely it looks and the only telltale hint of how many times it was worn is from the tiny pinholes in one lapel where the original owner pinned her brooch. 

There are no perspiration marks, but there is a very tiny pinhole under one arm. There is also a very small spot on the back, a tiny spot on the right sleeve as well as several other tiny rust spots on the skirt and jacket. These are not very noticeable in my opinion. The overall condition of both pieces is rated as excellent. The silk is strong and does not show any signs of degradation. 

The hem on the skirt is deep and hand sewn. It measures 6.5 inches or 16.5 cm.
 
This intentionally designed, loose fitting dress has a bust measurement of approximately 36 inches or slightly over 91 cm with flowing, draped waist of 42 inches or 106.5. The faille skirt measures 28 inches or 71 cm in length. The bodice dress measures 47 inches or 119.5 cm from shoulder to bottom of hem. 

The jacket measurements have a bust size of approximately 38 inches or 96.5 cm. The sleeve length is 22.5 inches or 57 cm. The overall jacket length is 29 inches or 73.5 cm. 

How many times have we wished that we could all be wearing such gorgeous clothing from the 1920s era and do so every day? This particular suit would indeed be appropriate wear for special occasions after cleaning and proper restoration by a skilled professional textile conservator. 

Certainly, the ensemble will make a stunning display for exhibition either for public or privately held collections. This is also one of those few truly wearable pieces from this era…again recommended for wear with tender loving care and following a conservationist’s attention. The long term value of this magnificent item depends on its overall condition so that it may be appreciated for generations to come.