Early 1920s Silk Dress Ensemble

This dress is one of those rare, delicious treats from the early 1920s jazz era...the time in fashion history that exuded both daring and as well as risqué elegance. 

This sheer dress with matching sheer liner or petticoat is dripping with lace and made entirely of silk. It would have taken weeks to create, as it is literally covered with heavily padded, ivory white on white hand embroidery. 

The photographs best describe the absolute beauty of the silken lace. Both pieces are original to the overall design and the dress dates to circa 1921-1924. 

The sensation of the silk upon your hand is memorable. It is designed with white on white, heavily padded hand embroidery and the dress is fully hand sewn.  

The period green silk ribbon will be included with the dress. It measures slightly over 2 yards or about 185 cm in length. It was used to tie up the outer overdress without putting strain on the silk. Again, this will work for display purposes...or a restoration may allow adequate strength within the casings. Originally, it appears that thin silk ribbons ran through the ruffled waist casings found within the interior of both the overdress and underdress. It appears these were designed so that they would have been pulled taut again the hips. This created a magnificent draped silhouette that emphasized the waist and hips. The original ribbons were not with the dress when the collection was presented. 

Of course, typical to this period in fashion history, no fasteners were used and the dress simply slips over the head. The original owner would have worn a simple silk slip beneath, in an ivory or very light pastel color of her choosing. 

The dress has a bust measurement of 32-33 inches or 81 to 84 cm. The hip measurement is a slightly generous 36 inches or 91.5 cm. 

The dress has a dropped hip silhouette that is approximately 3.5 to 4 inches or 9 to 10 cm off the natural waist. The overall length of the underdress from the back shoulder seam to the very bottom of the lace edge at hem is approximately 49.5 inches or 126 cm. The overdress is shorter so as to show the glorious lace of the underdress beneath. The overdress has a total length from the shoulder to bottom hem measuring approximately 47.5 inches or 121 cm.

1920s Couture Silk Faille Traveling Suit Remains Classic and Glamorous

This authentic 1920s ensemble features stunning design influences from both the Orient as well as the more masculine lines of a tuxedo. It is created from lustrous silk faille and pongee, circa 1927.  

Suit ensembles such as this were often designed for either fashionable automobile or train travel in mind. Skirts were long and silhouettes were sleek yet tailored for ease of movement.

This suit is exceptional. Perfectly tailored and also lined with exquisite silk pongee, the suit’s overall fabric is weighty enough to hang perfectly around the body.  This was not ready-to-wear, but a traveling suit custom created for a particular woman by a talented unknown designer. It is both hand sewn and machine stitched. 

The sleeveless slip styled dress has a delicate, yet strong, pongee bodice edged with lace. Tiny silk strips with snaps, beneath the shoulders, are designed to hold the bra straps well hidden and in place. The silk faille skirt features wide pleated folds on both sides. There is a single pocket in the skirt and two on the jacket, with silk arrowhead reinforcements at each corner. The bodice has 8 snap closures in the front. Please refer to the photographs. Also, please note that we have not pressed the suit nor cleaned the suit in any way. The photographs show some wrinkles in this suit, but to keep from setting any potential stains by the use of ironing, we have photographed this beautiful ensemble without touching any heat to it at all. 

The jacket features a wraparound kimono style with matching faille covered button using loop closures. The collar and sleeves are decorated with ivory top-stitched silk tape pleating, similar to what is used on tuxedos. Often collars were worn pulled up into a standing position around the head, which accentuated the sharp, closely shorn hairstyles that were popular at that time. 

Perhaps this suit was worn three times…. That is how lovely it looks and the only telltale hint of how many times it was worn is from the tiny pinholes in one lapel where the original owner pinned her brooch. 

There are no perspiration marks, but there is a very tiny pinhole under one arm. There is also a very small spot on the back, a tiny spot on the right sleeve as well as several other tiny rust spots on the skirt and jacket. These are not very noticeable in my opinion. The overall condition of both pieces is rated as excellent. The silk is strong and does not show any signs of degradation. 

The hem on the skirt is deep and hand sewn. It measures 6.5 inches or 16.5 cm.
 
This intentionally designed, loose fitting dress has a bust measurement of approximately 36 inches or slightly over 91 cm with flowing, draped waist of 42 inches or 106.5. The faille skirt measures 28 inches or 71 cm in length. The bodice dress measures 47 inches or 119.5 cm from shoulder to bottom of hem. 

The jacket measurements have a bust size of approximately 38 inches or 96.5 cm. The sleeve length is 22.5 inches or 57 cm. The overall jacket length is 29 inches or 73.5 cm. 

How many times have we wished that we could all be wearing such gorgeous clothing from the 1920s era and do so every day? This particular suit would indeed be appropriate wear for special occasions after cleaning and proper restoration by a skilled professional textile conservator. 

Certainly, the ensemble will make a stunning display for exhibition either for public or privately held collections. This is also one of those few truly wearable pieces from this era…again recommended for wear with tender loving care and following a conservationist’s attention. The long term value of this magnificent item depends on its overall condition so that it may be appreciated for generations to come.