Vintage New Look 1940s Gloves Trimmed with Horsehair Braid and Glass Beads

These are exceptional mid-arm length gloves from circa 1948.

They are entirely hand sewn and a wonderful example of post-WWII era fashion that was profusely inspired by Christian Dior's The New Look.  Certainly, these gloves have that sought after 1940s vintage style and elegance. They are made of finely woven cotton and trimmed with an interlaced plied braid made from horsehair, metallic copper and cotton floss. Thousands of tiny hand stitches were used to create these gloves, which still have the early Lady Gay fabric label inside.  They are finished with twinkling glass beads.   Divine. 

Vintage 1950s Bubble Dress With Crinoline

Authentic to the 1950s, this is a magnificent example of a glamorous lipstick red bubble cocktail dress, styled with original brilliant blue crinolines beneath, as found. The set is in vintage near mint condition. 

It is one of a kind and this is decidedly obvious upon close inspection by the type of stitching and construction methods. The dress appears that this may have been made by a young designer for either herself or a paying client. It is both machine sewn and hand finished. 

Everyone who happened to pass through the photography studio while the dress was being shot on the mannequin was drawn to it. Even the men made a second glance at the mannequin. The dress is absolutely stunning. 

This is the epitome of 1950s glamour and the color could not be more feminine. Created from crimson red cotton velvet, the dress is beautifully tailored and features all the design bells and whistles that could ever be found in a dress like this, authentic to circa 1958. 

With three quarter sleeves and deep neckline styled to enhance a 36 inch or 91.5 cm bust line, the dress is meant to be worn with a push-up bra. The plunging V back is beautifully designed to enhance a woman’s natural curves. 

The fitted waistline slims the waist visually with ruching, and the skirt almost explodes with yard upon yard of fabric. It is absolutely delicious to wear. The crinolines were found with the dress and are regal royal blue. They tease the eye with hints of contrasting color. 

The waist measures at 27.5 inches or 70 cm. The shoulder width, measured at the back, is 18 inches or 145.5 cm. The total length from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the hem is 45 inches or 114.5 cm. The magnificent undulated sweep is 85.5 inches or 220 cm . The skirt length from waist to hem is approximately 29 to 30 inches or 73.5 to 76 cm, measured against the gathered seams. It is lined with cherry red tulle that is designed to support the weight of the bubbled skirt design. 

The interior bodice is unlined but finished with faced seams. The sleeves are 14.5 inches or 37 cm in length with an opening circumference of 11 inches or 28 cm. 

There is a very small label stitched inside the skirt with numbers on it. This appears to be for the designer’s records. There are no names, dates nor any locations mentioned on that label. This was likely referring to the style notations and design efforts involved. The dress has a full zipper in the back with hook and eye closures. 

The crinoline slip is magnificent. There is a label inside and it reads “L-3 50 yards Petti Puff by Ruthe 21” The multi-layers of gathered tulle that make up the slip are perfect for this dress and easily hold the weight of the skirt. The tulle is trimmed with matching lace (please refer to the photograph). The slip is made to pull on and its elastic is supple and strong. This slip beautifully fits well beneath the dress. 

This is a stunning example of the bubble dress style, and certainly strong enough and elegant enough to wear. It will make an eye catching display for curators and will truly be appreciated by anyone who loves 1950s glamour.

Vintage Hollywood 1940s Fur Stole or Mink Capelet with Pockets & Provenance

This magnificent mink fur stole or capelet was offered for sale during the mid-1940s and was worn to Hollywood affairs.

The original owner was a teacher, a writer, an artist. She retired after many years of teaching service at the Indian Schools at both Anadarko, Oklahoma and Santa Fe, New Mexico. With too much spare time on her hands, she decided to teach the needy in Bakersfield, California, where she would also be near her sister and other friends.

Her older sister had been a model and was married to actor Tony Randall. The sisters were close and on occasion, they would meet with

friends in Hollywood and this stole was worn appropriately. Further historical information will be provided to the buyer if requested. This stole has never been on the market since it was first purchased.

The stole is beautifully tailored around the shoulders and has a wide collar that may be pulled up around the face. There are deep set pockets on both sides that are nearly invisible due to the fabulous design. This is a magnificent example and one that may be appreciated by vintage clothing enthusiasts as well as curators.

Fitted, the stole measures approximately 36 inches or 91.5 cm around the bottom edge, or sweep. The collar width is approximately 3.5 inches or 9 cm. The length of the lappets to the front measure approximately 9 inches or 23 cm.

Based on the style, the stole should fit most sizes. The mannequin model is size medium by most standards. The fur is supple. The interior lining is exquisite and clean…pristine. The stole is in vintage overall near mint condition with only a few very minor areas of rubbing of the fur.

Luxurious 1940s Dressage Boots from San Francisco's The White House

From the 1940s, these high quality, leather English riding boots were quite costly in their day.
 Made in England, the boots were sold through The White House, Raphael Weill & Company of San Francisco.

The White House is a well known historical California name, as it was the first dry goods company in San Francisco, opening in 1854.

The French owner, Raphael Weill, expanded the business into one of the most luxurious of all retail establishments during the golden age of department stores.

The Beaux Arts-style building was designed by Albert Pissis, a renowned architect and still stands at 256 Grant Avenue, San Francisco.

Weill’s store featured a glorious tearoom and such lavish elegance; all quite similar to Selfridge’s as seen today in the PBS series.

These exquisite dressage boots were imported from England and sold in the luxurious sporting goods section of this store sometime during the mid 1940s. When first offered for sale, these would have been considered the finest quality. They are complete with the original stretchers and boot hooks and also with The White House cardboard inserts.

The boots appear to fit a women’s slim 7.5 shoe size. The sole measures 11.25 inches or 28.5 cm end to end, across the bottom.

Marked: Mayfair Made in England. Circa 1945.

Vintage 1940s Gauntlet Gloves in Kid Leather Accurately Date Between 1946-1947

In vintage near mint condition, their glamorous style and quality are what first catches the eye. Obviously, these wonderful bone-colored, kid leather gloves are in that stylish 1940s gauntlet design. 

However, it is the interior labeling that will grab your attention. That seemingly minor blue stamp inside accurately dates their manufacture to between the post-WWII years of 1946-1947. 

Following WWII, Germany was divided into four zones after the Allied Nations defeated Hitler and the Nazis. These occupational zones were shared between the United States, United Kingdom, France and Soviet Union. These gloves were manufactured in Germany during this time of revitalization. We know this because of this particular glove company’s history coupled with the label marked “Made in Germany US Zone.”

The company was ARIS. ARIS was started in California by Arthur, Robert and Irwin Stanton during 1910 and the name is an acronym of their initials. The company owned a glove manufacturing plant in Germany, which was seized by the Nazis when the United States entered the war. At the end of the war following September 2, 1945, the California based ARIS glove company began work again in occupied Germany. Then in 1947, the United Kingdom and United States formed a unified zone agreement. Therefore, it is safe to say that these gloves were imported to the United States for sale sometime between 1946 to 1947. 

(see Evans, Judicial Decisions “Wartime confiscation of private property, Paris Reparation Agreement, 1946”) 

The gloves are made from exquisite and divinely soft kid leather. They have that definitive angled silhouette at the wrist, which is accented with eight kid leather flowers. The gloves are entirely hand sewn. Their quality is luxurious. 
They appear to have been worn and are in clean, vintage near mint condition. 

The gloves are accurately sized as a size 7 US or 7 EU. They are designed with ample room in the fingers for fashionable nails. Although they appear to have been gently worn, perhaps only once...these lovely nearly white gloves are a rare find.

The Gilded Age: Rare Antique Victorian Marabou Shawl, Stole or Scarf circa 1899

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Lovely and rare. This regal, black Victorian marabou shawl or stole is an incredible find. In utterly sublime condition, the stole dates to the final breath of The Gilded Age, circa 1899. 

This would have been quite a costly fashion accessory in its day. It is made of downy marabou feathers and trimmed with a tortoise shell chain, complimented with simple silk passementerie. Genuine marabou were unquestionably a regal luxury during this era. The delicate feathers are still soft as an angel’s wing and people ask if this is black swan's down. No, apparently these were even rarer and more luxurious than that. 

This rare, glorious example of Victorian fashion will make discerning collectors absolutely delighted. Amazingly enough, the condition is near mint. If this was ever worn, it was done so with incredible love and care. The silk foundation is exceptionally gorgeous…and strong. There is no sign of shattering. 

At approximately 115 years of age and entirely hand sewn, the stole is absolutely fascinating to examine. It is thoroughly covered with many rows of tiny, down feathers that were individually hand-tied into roping. The feathers remain incredibly delicate and are so soft that they are beyond description. 

The feathered roping was hand sewn onto a weighty silk crêpe foundation, which was designed to properly support that sea of costly feathers. In a finishing touch, the stole was styled with six large, downy fringes. These were intentionally created to resemble the fur tails used for regal capes worn by fashionable queens during the previous century. 

Marabou feathers during the Gilded Age were costly and rare…even more so than most fur at the time. This stole was an absolute luxury for the woman who owned it. All we know about the original owner is that she was from the northern part of coastal New England and this item was acquired through an estate sale. Yes, we too wish that we knew who she was…. 

This exquisite piece of fashion history should be destined for a fine privately held collection or museum. It is wearable, but if so, should be carefully used. The value of this stole relies on the exquisite condition that it is in. Also, it must be noted that the marabou feathers tend to shed. This may be why this stole was not worn often, if at all, over 115 years ago. Although the stole is supple, remarkably strong and fresh to the touch, the feathery fluff does tend to flutter off and may well be noticed. This is another reason why display is recommended for this exceptional piece.

In near mint condition, or perhaps a notch above, this antique stole features a 7 inch (or 18 cm) long carved tortoiseshell chain, plus both hook and eye and also early snap closures, all original. The very early snap fastener found inside a silk passementerie ball trim was used to identify the era during which this piece was made. 

Overall, the stole, scarf or shawl measures approximately 30 inches long without its feathery fringe. There are six “tails” of fringe and each measure slightly over 6 inches or 15 cm in length. The widest section of the stole, measured in the middle to the back, is 6.50 inches or 16.5 cm. 

1920s Burson Knitting Company Stockings for Women with Label

This pair of women’s black stockings dates to circa 1920 and still have the original Burson knitting mill label attached. They were never worn, and a wonderful find.

Burson Knitting Mills began in Rockford, Illinois. The company was known for patenting women's hosiery designs that were shaped to fit the graceful curves of a woman’s leg. These were also designed to "not easily rip".

Please refer to the scan reproduced here, at your the left, of a Burson advertisement for this style of hosiery taken from an early 1921 fashion magazine in the library at The Gilded Griffin.

A trade publication, “Textile World Record” from 1908, published that Burson Knitting Company was operating at that time using “750 latch needle knitting and 100 sewing machines on Burson fashioned hosiery for women. The plant is operated by steam power and has complete yarn and piece dying establishment. As reported...the capital stock has been increased from $500,000 to $800,000."

By 1920, Burson was advertising their stockings in nearly every magazine and book that was of even the slightest interest to women. They promoted their comfortable, seamless hosiery in heavy-weight silk or mercerized cotton, with claims that these would fit so well that the stockings would never gape or gather around the ankles. Their diverse fashion advertising featured working girl models, elegant upper class ladies, as well as riqué, flapper-styled silent film actresses.

It is always delightful to find vintage fashions in an unworn state!

These stockings were made circa 1920 in Burson's heavy-weight silk, and were designed to have the look and feel of wool, according to the company's promotions. The golden label with the Burson “Knit-to-fit Fashioned hose without a seam” is still intact. Although the company organized in 1892, the Knit-to-Fit logo appears to have been first used around 1919.  

The stockings are an exciting find. Indeed, they are most certainly made to look like wool, and will fool most people at first glance...even experienced collectors. This is just as Burson claimed in their advertising and trade publications nearly a century ago! 

They are 28.5 inches or 72.5 cm in length…and again...just like the Burson Knitting Company promised…they do still seem to hold their original shape quite beautifully…even after 95 years!