Sunday, January 10, 2016

Rare Sally Victor Hat



Sally Victor's hats are predominate in the collections at The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC. Her work in the millinery industry is perhaps some of the most illustrious of all the designers over the years and ranks with the great names in millinery design such as Dior, Bes-Ben, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Lily Daché. 
This hat was designed for mourning and was likely sold around 1950 based on information researched at The Costume Institute by comparing Victor's labeling, which were often changed to different graphics over the years when she was in business. 
The overall silhouette and style of this hat also indicate its placement in the vintage fashion timeline shortly after pillbox styles first became popular with the New Look. 
This Sally Victor hat is quite rare since it is in such remarkable condition and because it was made for mourning wear. Of course, the hat would have only been worn for mourning and typically only for a mourning situation where etiquette called for heavy veiling, such as when the deceased loved one was immediately tied to the wearer: a parent, spouse, child or sibling. 
The hat itself is made from black velvet with a large band trimming the back. It is a simple, open pillbox style but Victor has added her signature by making one side, to the front, dip with a slightly more dramatic arch. The hat, therefore, has an asymmetrical silhouette that is quite subtle to the front and then it is fully cloaked with a luxurious veil. The veil is trimmed with black silk passementerie along the bottom that beautifully weights the silk netting so that it flows and drapes in grand fashion. 
The hat appears as if perhaps worn only once. There are no makeup stains or tears in the veiling. Upon extremely close inspection, we have found a few brides in the netting that are broken, but this was found only by placing the veil under magnification. It is sized to fit 22 inches or 56 cm and the veil drapes to the shoulders, or slightly over. 
This hat is destined for a discerning, historic costume or millinery collection and will be greatly appreciated by curators. It is an exceptional, rare treasure. Although not encouraged, the hat could be worn but maintaining its condition is key to its long-term value. It is a historically important hat due to the nature of its design and its designer, Sally Victor. This is a very special hat, indeed.

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