Sunday, January 10, 2016

Vintage Couture: Rare Archie Eason Cartwheel Hat



This early Archie Eason cartwheel hat has every design feature found during the beginning of the New Look style that became immediately prevalent through Dior's work and worn by fashionable, wealthy women beginning about 1953. 
This particular Eason couture hat is destined for a museum or discerning collection. It will be an eye-catching showstopper for exhibition with that massive, glistening brim measuring about 18 inches or nearly 46 cm across. This design is most assuredly a one-of-a-kind hat created by this master milliner. 
The hat bears Eason's nearly secret couture mark. He has sewn single tiny sequin with matching glass bead atop the brim. This barely noticeable sequin and bead are the glittery indicators for the wearer so that the hat may be quickly placed upon the head. Of course, only Eason's couture hats have this tiny signature. 
The hat is entirely hand made and hand sewn. It features a skull cap with that early 1950s widow's peak design, which also helps to date this hat more specifically on a fashion timeline. The under supports are made entirely from woven horsehair. Overall, the hat is constructed from an unusual fiber that appears to be silk gauze. However, a fiber burn test reveals that this is a unique type of cellophane material. The material alone will be of interest to collectors and fashion historians. 
The hat is a very light peach color with gray undertones. The handmade silk flowers are an antique ivory color. The hat is not faded but appears vintage in the overall look as the colors are not bright. Again, close inspection reveals that the hat has not faded in any way, and the slight gray tones are likely the result of the patina that only time can create with certain textiles and fibers. 

This hat is quite special. It is in excellent condition overall and rated at a very high excellent condition, considering age. It is pristine both inside and out without any stains, holes, makeup marks and other problems typically found with millinery examples from this era. An unusual feature is that the interior of the skull cap is faced with silk grosgrain. This was obviously done to protect the hat against the usual problems from wear. The beautiful embroidered Archie Eason silk satin couture label is intact. It is wearable, but hopefully only for special occasions since the hat is considered historically important. It measures to fit a generous size 23 inches or 58.5 cm. The hat may be worn by smaller sizes depending upon the style of the hair. A small hat pin, as found, is included. 

2 comments:

  1. Would the owner of this hat consider selling. I am Archie's niece and would consider it a treasure. Thank you .

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    1. I have an unsusal hat of his I am listing on ebay, it's white with bee's entitled one for the road, new with tags, green sequin

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