Antique c 1860 Paisley Shawl with Gustav Stickley's Designers' Peter & Ruth Hansen Provenance Ref: Pashima Kashmiri Kashmir Shawl

This Kashmir Shawl dates to circa 1860 and was likely worn through the American Civil War era. It is an interesting find beyond the simple truth that it is over 150 years old. 

Paisley shawls such as these are described in many fashion publications such as Lady’s Godey’s Book beginning around 1853. They were so popular that they are found in fine art portrait paintings, such as in this oil by Claude Monet, "Madame Louis Joachim Gaudibert" dated 1868. Paisley shawls are represented in the finest museums. One example is seen on this mannequin, “Day Dress with Shawl” dated 1865-1867 from the Costume Institute at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. 

Passed from mother to daughter over generations, these expensive shawls continue to inspire. This example is so large that it is slightly older than the museum pieces used as illustrations here. It is in such exquisite condition that one can immediately see that it was obviously cherished. 

The shawl was created on a jacquard loom and finished with hand embroidery. It measures approximately 77 inches or 196 cm on each side, square, and was designed for wear over exceedingly large crinolines or hooped fashions. It was difficult to wear a coat for warmth with such large skirts, therefore shawls large enough to drape over such wide gowns
were worn instead. 

This exquisite paisley mantle comes from the estate of Peter and Ruth Hansen. Peter Hansen designed furniture for Gustav Stickley, one of the greatest furniture makers in America. Peter’s wife, Ruth was an artist and also worked as a draftsman for Stickley. Items from their great artistic careers and stylish home are found in many superior private collections and museums. 

The shawl is attributed as to having once belonged to Ruth Hansen. The only real peculiar flaw in the condition of the shawl is that (only) on the back, there are small spots of true vermillion pigmented oil paint. (See photograph of back, upper left) 

Paisley shawls were a favorite in artists’ studios and often used as colorful backgrounds in portrait studies. We have searched for photographs of Ruth Hansen’s studio, but have yet to find one…yet we cannot give up hope that this shawl might be recognizable in one. The small areas of oil paint on this shawl is most assuredly artist’s paint and this color that was made from the mineral cinnabar was classically used on artists’ palettes for centuries. 

This shawl is rich in color and has no areas of fading. Our conservationist examined the entire shawl under magnification. She found that there are very few and only minor issues with several pinholes and one small area of missing fringe that is barely discernible measuring not quite 2 inches or 5 cm from an edge. There are one or two nearly century old mends and the longest, barely discernible mend is 5 inches or 12.5 cm. These were carried out where the structure and most are in the same quadrant. Due to the overall embroidery and design, the mending is practically invisible. 

This shawl or mantle is dated due to structure and design. It is likely Scottish made and dates circa 1860-1865. It is a gorgeous, magnificent example and could be worn with tender loving care. The Hansen provenance makes this remarkable 150 year old treasure all the more special.

Rare American Civil War Era Gentleman’s Pleated Cravat Bow Tie Circa 1863

Over 150 years old, this authentic American Civil War era cravat and bow tie date to circa 1863. It is entirely hand sewn and made from finely woven black wool, silk satin and lined with striped brown and black silk. Finally, the interior is faced around the lower edge with thin, cream silk ribbon. 


Aside from the fact that this is such an early bow tie, its most remarkable attribute is that it was designed to be easily removed, and is adjustable in sizing. 

It is believed that this comes from an estate find that was somewhere between Dayton to Columbus, Ohio region, where a number of famous politicians and wealthy merchants lived during this era. 

However, another bow tie such as this is found at the Charleston Museum, Charleston, South Carolina. Their bow tie, with stiff insert, is described as one that was possibly worn by Abraham Lincoln (reference: Charleston Museum blog, February 12, 2013). Indeed, the photograph taken of Lincoln during the year 1863 shows him wearing a tie that is almost exactly like the one in The Charleston Museum. Although Lincoln most certainly did not wear this cravat and bow tie listed here, the style is also almost exactly the same. 

In an attempt to photograph how the cravat and tie look on a gentleman’s neck, I enlisted one of my studio assistants to model the cravat & bow tie in a reproduction, period styled photograph. The sepia toned photo to the right is the end result. 

The cravat easily slips into place around the neck with almost a spring action, and attaches into itself by slipping through a simple sleeve at the back. 

If one looks quite closely…and under strong light such as what you may see in the photographs…there is an india ink stamp that appears to read 17 1/2. It measures approximately 18.5 inches in length or 47 cm and fits up to a 17.5 inch or 44.5 cm neck measurement. 

Civil War Era Lingerie

Gorgeous. Authentic. Circa 1862. Seductively feminine. 

Not bloomers, really. These are properly called "drawers" and this particular undergarment is absolutely breathtaking. From the Civil War era, these drawers appear to have never been worn. 

The drawers date to the early 1860s and similar in pattern to those found in the Victoria and Albert Museum. They are made of the most exquisite and finest batiste linen, and are expertly hand sewn. The undergarment perfectly drapes over the figure beautifully and is fastened by two tiny mother-of-pearl buttons at the back. 

The drawers truly appear exactly as they did when they were first created over 150 years ago. With a wide leg opening and split-gusset styling, they are also stitched together at the back, which helps to date this undergarment to the early 1860s. For added elegance, the drawers are graced with perfect handmade lace with white work embroidered inserts on both legs. 

Entirely hand sewn...the thousands of tiny stitches are expertly executed. This undergarment took many days to create. 

The garment measures in a size larger than most with a 32 inch or 81 cm waist. They are absolutely exquisite, strong and wearable for special occasions. Civil war reenactors will especially love the garment and appreciate every inch (or centimeter). 

Please refer to the photographs which show just how beautiful these look when worn. Seductive. Authentic. Wonderful in every conceivable way. 

The leg length measures approximately 22- 5/8 inches or 57.8 cm. The crotch length is approximately 37 inches or 94 cm. The bottom of the leg circumference is 29-1/4 inches or 74.2 cm.