Civil War Reenactors Wonder About The Future

Now that nearly all of the 150th Civil War anniversaries and commemorations have passed,  the number of re-enactors is dwindling.  Article and photographs by Julia Henri for Midcountry Media, Knightstown, Indiana.

Antique c 1860 Paisley Shawl with Gustav Stickley's Designers' Peter & Ruth Hansen Provenance Ref: Pashima Kashmiri Kashmir Shawl

This Kashmir Shawl dates to circa 1860 and was likely worn through the American Civil War era. It is an interesting find beyond the simple truth that it is over 150 years old. 

Paisley shawls such as these are described in many fashion publications such as Lady’s Godey’s Book beginning around 1853. They were so popular that they are found in fine art portrait paintings, such as in this oil by Claude Monet, "Madame Louis Joachim Gaudibert" dated 1868. Paisley shawls are represented in the finest museums. One example is seen on this mannequin, “Day Dress with Shawl” dated 1865-1867 from the Costume Institute at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. 

Passed from mother to daughter over generations, these expensive shawls continue to inspire. This example is so large that it is slightly older than the museum pieces used as illustrations here. It is in such exquisite condition that one can immediately see that it was obviously cherished. 

The shawl was created on a jacquard loom and finished with hand embroidery. It measures approximately 77 inches or 196 cm on each side, square, and was designed for wear over exceedingly large crinolines or hooped fashions. It was difficult to wear a coat for warmth with such large skirts, therefore shawls large enough to drape over such wide gowns
were worn instead. 

This exquisite paisley mantle comes from the estate of Peter and Ruth Hansen. Peter Hansen designed furniture for Gustav Stickley, one of the greatest furniture makers in America. Peter’s wife, Ruth was an artist and also worked as a draftsman for Stickley. Items from their great artistic careers and stylish home are found in many superior private collections and museums. 

The shawl is attributed as to having once belonged to Ruth Hansen. The only real peculiar flaw in the condition of the shawl is that (only) on the back, there are small spots of true vermillion pigmented oil paint. (See photograph of back, upper left) 

Paisley shawls were a favorite in artists’ studios and often used as colorful backgrounds in portrait studies. We have searched for photographs of Ruth Hansen’s studio, but have yet to find one…yet we cannot give up hope that this shawl might be recognizable in one. The small areas of oil paint on this shawl is most assuredly artist’s paint and this color that was made from the mineral cinnabar was classically used on artists’ palettes for centuries. 

This shawl is rich in color and has no areas of fading. Our conservationist examined the entire shawl under magnification. She found that there are very few and only minor issues with several pinholes and one small area of missing fringe that is barely discernible measuring not quite 2 inches or 5 cm from an edge. There are one or two nearly century old mends and the longest, barely discernible mend is 5 inches or 12.5 cm. These were carried out where the structure and most are in the same quadrant. Due to the overall embroidery and design, the mending is practically invisible. 

This shawl or mantle is dated due to structure and design. It is likely Scottish made and dates circa 1860-1865. It is a gorgeous, magnificent example and could be worn with tender loving care. The Hansen provenance makes this remarkable 150 year old treasure all the more special.

Rare American Civil War Era Gentleman’s Pleated Cravat Bow Tie Circa 1863

Over 150 years old, this authentic American Civil War era cravat and bow tie date to circa 1863. It is entirely hand sewn and made from finely woven black wool, silk satin and lined with striped brown and black silk. Finally, the interior is faced around the lower edge with thin, cream silk ribbon. 


Aside from the fact that this is such an early bow tie, its most remarkable attribute is that it was designed to be easily removed, and is adjustable in sizing. 

It is believed that this comes from an estate find that was somewhere between Dayton to Columbus, Ohio region, where a number of famous politicians and wealthy merchants lived during this era. 

However, another bow tie such as this is found at the Charleston Museum, Charleston, South Carolina. Their bow tie, with stiff insert, is described as one that was possibly worn by Abraham Lincoln (reference: Charleston Museum blog, February 12, 2013). Indeed, the photograph taken of Lincoln during the year 1863 shows him wearing a tie that is almost exactly like the one in The Charleston Museum. Although Lincoln most certainly did not wear this cravat and bow tie listed here, the style is also almost exactly the same. 

In an attempt to photograph how the cravat and tie look on a gentleman’s neck, I enlisted one of my studio assistants to model the cravat & bow tie in a reproduction, period styled photograph. The sepia toned photo to the right is the end result. 

The cravat easily slips into place around the neck with almost a spring action, and attaches into itself by slipping through a simple sleeve at the back. 

If one looks quite closely…and under strong light such as what you may see in the photographs…there is an india ink stamp that appears to read 17 1/2. It measures approximately 18.5 inches in length or 47 cm and fits up to a 17.5 inch or 44.5 cm neck measurement. 

Civil War Era Lingerie

Gorgeous. Authentic. Circa 1862. Seductively feminine. 

Not bloomers, really. These are properly called "drawers" and this particular undergarment is absolutely breathtaking. From the Civil War era, these drawers appear to have never been worn. 

The drawers date to the early 1860s and similar in pattern to those found in the Victoria and Albert Museum. They are made of the most exquisite and finest batiste linen, and are expertly hand sewn. The undergarment perfectly drapes over the figure beautifully and is fastened by two tiny mother-of-pearl buttons at the back. 

The drawers truly appear exactly as they did when they were first created over 150 years ago. With a wide leg opening and split-gusset styling, they are also stitched together at the back, which helps to date this undergarment to the early 1860s. For added elegance, the drawers are graced with perfect handmade lace with white work embroidered inserts on both legs. 

Entirely hand sewn...the thousands of tiny stitches are expertly executed. This undergarment took many days to create. 

The garment measures in a size larger than most with a 32 inch or 81 cm waist. They are absolutely exquisite, strong and wearable for special occasions. Civil war reenactors will especially love the garment and appreciate every inch (or centimeter). 

Please refer to the photographs which show just how beautiful these look when worn. Seductive. Authentic. Wonderful in every conceivable way. 

The leg length measures approximately 22- 5/8 inches or 57.8 cm. The crotch length is approximately 37 inches or 94 cm. The bottom of the leg circumference is 29-1/4 inches or 74.2 cm. 

Authentic Civil War Era Capelette in Claret Red Silk, circa 1862

It is effortless to imagine the moment when the original owner extinguished her candle, just before she untied the ribbons on this capelette...because her fingertip left a tiny mark from the candle's hot wax upon the interior lining when she went to pull it from off her shoulders.

Aside from this, the capelette is in extraordinarily rare and magnificent perfect condition. It is destined only for the most discerning collector....

Curators, civil war reenactors and discerning collectors will all be drawn to its elegance. 

It is absolutely breathtakingly beautiful. The capelette is in such a rarely found, nearly perfect condition that it will delight everyone who sees it.

It appears so lovely, that we have to wonder if it was ever actually worn. However, yes, there the tiny waxy mark is the only evidence that it was indeed used at least once by its original owner....well over 150 years ago. 

This short, rounded cape style is seen in Civil War era tintypes dated to circa 1862. 

It is, of course, entirely hand sewn. The capelette is made from deep, claret colored silk and lined with a luxuriously contrasting, warm rose colored silk. It has front ties that are made from the matching claret silk. 

The second layer of fringe around the neck is actually edging a very deep collar...creating a drape similar to a double shawl that also accentuates the dropped shoulder as found on dresses from this era. This is perfectly lined with matching silk. Again, the hand stitching is simply a joy to examine. 

This capelette will bring awe to anyone who loves antique textiles. Typically, when one finds silk articles of clothing from this era, they are filled with splits or tiny pin holes. This is so nearly perfect. Simply hold it up to a bright light and you will see nothing more than the shadows of exquisite embroidery. There are two very small dark spots likely created by the original owner. These actually appear to be tiny stains caused by something such as candle wax on a fingertip. This small discoloration is less than 1/4 inch or 1/2 centimeter wide and is found only on the interior lining, near the neck. The pin head sized dot is next to it. Aside from what was mentioned already, this c. 1862 cape is in extraordinarily rare and magnificent perfect condition. It is destined only for the most discerning collector.... 

The silk shows no signs of degradation.  The capelette's design was created in a simple half circle. It measures approximately 10.25 inches or 26 cm around the neckline. It is approximately 63 inches or 160 cm in length. Shoulder width is 12.5 inches or 32 cm. Mid back length (not counting fringe length) is approximately 21.5 inches or 54.5 cm. The secondary layer is approximately 7 inches or 13 cm measuring at the back, again not counting fringe length. The silk hand-knotted fringe is approximately 4.5 inches or 11.5 cm in length overall. 

Civil War Era Fingerless Gloves Date To Circa 1861

True Americana.

Hauntingly beautiful…these exquisite silk lace gloves from circa 1861.

They are approximately 153 years old and are indeed from the American Civil War period. They are also the largest sized gloves from this era that we have had the pleasure in handling.

They come from a New Hampshire estate and their original owner was not identified. The gloves were found crumpled and had been obviously stored in an old trunk in an attic for well over a century in time. We weren’t sure what would happen, but we took the risk and took them back to the Studio here at The Gilded Griffin and handed them over to our conservationist. 

The result is breathtaking. 

The cleaning took nearly 2 weeks and was finished using museum archival conservation standards. No bleach was used. The gloves will require archival tissue storage, and should remain beautiful for many decades to come.

The gloves are fingerless aside from the thumb and are in overall excellent condition aside from a tiny snag on the palm (obvious in the photograph attached) and an even less obvious snag on the back of the left hand. These would make ideal candidates for restoration. Certainly, these will make any Civil War reenactor’s heart beat a little faster because they will make a glorious pattern for both study and replication.

We have attached a digital copy of an ambrotype from the collections in the U.S. Library of Congress. Please reference hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/ppmsca.34959).

  

The image, dated to circa 1861 and listed as American Civil War era, shows a woman wearing similar gloves. As a side note just for extra interest, it should be noted that the gloves in this image are likely dyed to match her hat and the darker color found in her brightly colored dress. They were quite likely not black as many people often believe due to early photographic technologies.

Fingerless gloves or half gloves are worn throughout history, but certain patterns and lengths can help to identify their age. “Godey’s Lady’s Book” from 1841 shows women wearing ball gowns with fingerless lace gloves. Although similar in length, mesh style and edging the lace gloves from this earlier period are plainer in style. They also do not have thumbs or fingers, although they do end halfway down the palm.

These particular Civil War era gloves feature intricately detailed lace edgings against the mesh and also have tiny ruffles that are accentuated when tied.  

The workmanship on these glistening silk gloves is masterful. The intricate lacework requires magnification to see its superfine detail. The gloves are the color of ivory…the color only found in natural silk…and they shimmer in the light. They are entirely original right down to the finely woven silk lacings used to tie them in place along the edge of the wrist and slightly up the arm.

The glove design is perfection in creative problem solving. The ties are adjustable, allowing the wrist and fingers to move without risk of pulling or breaking the gloves. 

They are in excellent overall condition best described as excellent. They are larger than any we have ever found from this era and easily fit up to a slim glove size of 7.5.  

They are quite flexible and strong enough for gentle wear, although we caution against this to collectors because their long term value will only be maintained if they remain in this marvelous condition. 

The total length is 7-1/8 inches or 18cm. The palm measurement is 5-3/4 inches or 14.5 cm.