Civil War Era Lingerie

Gorgeous. Authentic. Circa 1862. Seductively feminine. 

Not bloomers, really. These are properly called "drawers" and this particular undergarment is absolutely breathtaking. From the Civil War era, these drawers appear to have never been worn. 

The drawers date to the early 1860s and similar in pattern to those found in the Victoria and Albert Museum. They are made of the most exquisite and finest batiste linen, and are expertly hand sewn. The undergarment perfectly drapes over the figure beautifully and is fastened by two tiny mother-of-pearl buttons at the back. 

The drawers truly appear exactly as they did when they were first created over 150 years ago. With a wide leg opening and split-gusset styling, they are also stitched together at the back, which helps to date this undergarment to the early 1860s. For added elegance, the drawers are graced with perfect handmade lace with white work embroidered inserts on both legs. 

Entirely hand sewn...the thousands of tiny stitches are expertly executed. This undergarment took many days to create. 

The garment measures in a size larger than most with a 32 inch or 81 cm waist. They are absolutely exquisite, strong and wearable for special occasions. Civil war reenactors will especially love the garment and appreciate every inch (or centimeter). 

Please refer to the photographs which show just how beautiful these look when worn. Seductive. Authentic. Wonderful in every conceivable way. 

The leg length measures approximately 22- 5/8 inches or 57.8 cm. The crotch length is approximately 37 inches or 94 cm. The bottom of the leg circumference is 29-1/4 inches or 74.2 cm. 

Rare Civil War Garibaldi Blouse circa 1863, Hand Sewn Used For Maternity Wear

This exquisite, loose fitting blouse is dated by its silhouette to circa 1863, American Civil War. 

A treasure...the style is called a Garibaldi blouse and this particular one is utterly perfect...truly gorgeous condition. There is no indication that this blouse was ever worn. It has been stored away in wonderful condition for well over 150 years. 

One cannot help but wonder why.... With pieces like this, everyone wishes for a provenance, but in this case, that will forever remain a mystery....

Please take out your loop or magnifying glass because you will want to take the time to examine those unbelievable, meticulous hand stitches. Truly, this blouse was created with masterful workmanship that took hours upon hours to create. 

The blouse is made from checkered linen woven in a cross-barred pattern. This fabric was popular during the Civil War era and was created when a heavier cord than the rest was woven at regular intervals in both the warp and weft direction.  The blouse features 4 perfect mother-of-pearl buttons down the front and one at each wrist. The buttons have hand carved lines on each, like a sunburst around their centers. The hem and seam treatments are utterly superb. Hand-made silk lace edges the collar, wrists and high neck, which is also typical of the Garibaldi style. 

The blouse is exceptionally loose around the bottom compared to other styles of this era, and designed to blouse out from where it tucks into a tight waist. The style features dropped shoulder seams that became ubiquitous in both blouse and bodice styles during this era. 

However, this particular blouse has only four original buttons down the front, which are placed slightly higher than usual, and the pattern flares wide at the bottom. This appears to have been designed for the latter months of maternity, which would be quite sensible planning for a fashionable mother-to-be during the early 1800s. The bottom hem, or sweep, is measured to an impressive 62-5/8 inches or just under 159 cm. 

Authentic...yet, this antique linen blouse was obviously never worn. 

It was designed for a petite woman, which is most evident in the neck measurement. This is a circumference, when buttoned at the top, of only 12 inches or 30.5 cm. 

Thankfully, it remains absolutely perfect after one and a half centuries and will make a beloved addition to any discerning museum or privately held collection. It is truly rare to find an authentic garment in such magnificent condition without spots, snags, stains, holes or storage odors. 

The outer edge of the wrists measures 5-7/8 inches or 15 cm. The measurement across the back from the dropped sleeve seam to sleeve seam is 20 inches or 51 cm. The length at the front, from the top button to the base of the garment is 21-1/4 inches or 54 cm. The circumference of the blouse, where it begins to dramatically widen at the bustline, is 40-1/2 inches or 103 cm. 

Authentic Civil War Era Capelette in Claret Red Silk, circa 1862

It is effortless to imagine the moment when the original owner extinguished her candle, just before she untied the ribbons on this capelette...because her fingertip left a tiny mark from the candle's hot wax upon the interior lining when she went to pull it from off her shoulders.

Aside from this, the capelette is in extraordinarily rare and magnificent perfect condition. It is destined only for the most discerning collector....

Curators, civil war reenactors and discerning collectors will all be drawn to its elegance. 

It is absolutely breathtakingly beautiful. The capelette is in such a rarely found, nearly perfect condition that it will delight everyone who sees it.

It appears so lovely, that we have to wonder if it was ever actually worn. However, yes, there the tiny waxy mark is the only evidence that it was indeed used at least once by its original owner....well over 150 years ago. 

This short, rounded cape style is seen in Civil War era tintypes dated to circa 1862. 

It is, of course, entirely hand sewn. The capelette is made from deep, claret colored silk and lined with a luxuriously contrasting, warm rose colored silk. It has front ties that are made from the matching claret silk. 

The second layer of fringe around the neck is actually edging a very deep collar...creating a drape similar to a double shawl that also accentuates the dropped shoulder as found on dresses from this era. This is perfectly lined with matching silk. Again, the hand stitching is simply a joy to examine. 

This capelette will bring awe to anyone who loves antique textiles. Typically, when one finds silk articles of clothing from this era, they are filled with splits or tiny pin holes. This is so nearly perfect. Simply hold it up to a bright light and you will see nothing more than the shadows of exquisite embroidery. There are two very small dark spots likely created by the original owner. These actually appear to be tiny stains caused by something such as candle wax on a fingertip. This small discoloration is less than 1/4 inch or 1/2 centimeter wide and is found only on the interior lining, near the neck. The pin head sized dot is next to it. Aside from what was mentioned already, this c. 1862 cape is in extraordinarily rare and magnificent perfect condition. It is destined only for the most discerning collector.... 

The silk shows no signs of degradation.  The capelette's design was created in a simple half circle. It measures approximately 10.25 inches or 26 cm around the neckline. It is approximately 63 inches or 160 cm in length. Shoulder width is 12.5 inches or 32 cm. Mid back length (not counting fringe length) is approximately 21.5 inches or 54.5 cm. The secondary layer is approximately 7 inches or 13 cm measuring at the back, again not counting fringe length. The silk hand-knotted fringe is approximately 4.5 inches or 11.5 cm in length overall. 

Civil War Era Fingerless Gloves Date To Circa 1861

True Americana.

Hauntingly beautiful…these exquisite silk lace gloves from circa 1861.

They are approximately 153 years old and are indeed from the American Civil War period. They are also the largest sized gloves from this era that we have had the pleasure in handling.

They come from a New Hampshire estate and their original owner was not identified. The gloves were found crumpled and had been obviously stored in an old trunk in an attic for well over a century in time. We weren’t sure what would happen, but we took the risk and took them back to the Studio here at The Gilded Griffin and handed them over to our conservationist. 

The result is breathtaking. 

The cleaning took nearly 2 weeks and was finished using museum archival conservation standards. No bleach was used. The gloves will require archival tissue storage, and should remain beautiful for many decades to come.

The gloves are fingerless aside from the thumb and are in overall excellent condition aside from a tiny snag on the palm (obvious in the photograph attached) and an even less obvious snag on the back of the left hand. These would make ideal candidates for restoration. Certainly, these will make any Civil War reenactor’s heart beat a little faster because they will make a glorious pattern for both study and replication.

We have attached a digital copy of an ambrotype from the collections in the U.S. Library of Congress. Please reference hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/ppmsca.34959).

  

The image, dated to circa 1861 and listed as American Civil War era, shows a woman wearing similar gloves. As a side note just for extra interest, it should be noted that the gloves in this image are likely dyed to match her hat and the darker color found in her brightly colored dress. They were quite likely not black as many people often believe due to early photographic technologies.

Fingerless gloves or half gloves are worn throughout history, but certain patterns and lengths can help to identify their age. “Godey’s Lady’s Book” from 1841 shows women wearing ball gowns with fingerless lace gloves. Although similar in length, mesh style and edging the lace gloves from this earlier period are plainer in style. They also do not have thumbs or fingers, although they do end halfway down the palm.

These particular Civil War era gloves feature intricately detailed lace edgings against the mesh and also have tiny ruffles that are accentuated when tied.  

The workmanship on these glistening silk gloves is masterful. The intricate lacework requires magnification to see its superfine detail. The gloves are the color of ivory…the color only found in natural silk…and they shimmer in the light. They are entirely original right down to the finely woven silk lacings used to tie them in place along the edge of the wrist and slightly up the arm.

The glove design is perfection in creative problem solving. The ties are adjustable, allowing the wrist and fingers to move without risk of pulling or breaking the gloves. 

They are in excellent overall condition best described as excellent. They are larger than any we have ever found from this era and easily fit up to a slim glove size of 7.5.  

They are quite flexible and strong enough for gentle wear, although we caution against this to collectors because their long term value will only be maintained if they remain in this marvelous condition. 

The total length is 7-1/8 inches or 18cm. The palm measurement is 5-3/4 inches or 14.5 cm.

Civil War Era circa 1865 Tintype with Haunting, Handsome Image of Unknown Sitter

This is an authentic tintype that has been dated to 1865 when the Civil War ended with the surrender at Appomattox Court House on April 9th. It is 149 years old.

Please refer to the digitally enlarged image attached, especially made so that you can more clearly see his face. It is so wonderful to see even the hairs on his neck in such a beautiful tintype. And oh, those sparkling blue eyes. The photographer captured such a haunting pose and this unknown gent successfully held so very still!

The young gentleman is dressed stylishly...his eyes are obviously pale blue. The photographer has graced his image by hand-coloring the cheeks ever so slightly pink. This was a common enhancement that indicated the sitter was filled with life...especially as precious as life was after such a horrible war. 

This tintype is unique as it has the embossed paper sleeves that were invented especially for tintype mounts. The type of embossing and the printed words reading "Patent Applied For" are known to date this tintype to 1865 precisely. These type of mounting cards are also collectible and considered an important part of photography's history. This paper is actually embossed with one of two Potter's patent marks...his other actually states the date of March 7, 1865.

On the back, there is the 2 cent orange Washington tax stamp, which also dates this to 1865.

The tintype photograph has no identification on it whatsoever. The image is crisp and clear, in antique excellent condition with minor scratches. There is minor foxing on the embossed paper sleeve. It measures approximately 2-3/8 inches or 10 cm by nearly 4 inches or 10 cm overall and is in near mint condition. Obviously, there is no watermark on the actual image.

Civil War Era Miser's Purse Dates to Circa 1862

From a Maine estate, this is a black silk miser's purse. It appears as though it was never used...or if so, then the original owner was very gentle indeed.  This Civil War era purse is unique and almost magical to examine, because there appear to be no openings. Yet, the strings do pull apart in such a way as to open the double pouches so that coins, paper notes or any type of small object may be inserted safely inside. The purse closes when the strings are

pulled back into place, and the openings become almost invisible.

Of course, the purse appears as though the coins are permanently inside since there's no obvious way to extract them. This is how the miser's purse got its name. 

The purse is crocheted with black, plied silk, hand spun yarn.

The silver washed metallic beaded fringe is interwoven, creating a braided effect that echoes the textures of the crochet work.  The metal ring allows the purse to be attached to the dress or worn over a finger. This miser's purse measures 17.5 inches or 44 cm in total length.